Wildlife and Wilderness in South Africa

South Africa. A place that is somehow both untamed and fully presentable in a National Geographic way. It’s one of those places that everyone tells you is “breathtaking,” which feels like a cliché until you step off the plane and realize, “Oh, they were actually underselling it.” My love for the wild—and by wild, I mean the kind that involves lions and landscapes that make you question all your previous life choices—brought me here.

Landing in South Africa, I felt this weird mix of excitement and anxiety, like I was on the brink of something that could either change my life or remind me that I really don’t like hiking. The country is this mind-bending cocktail of beauty and political turbulence, where the landscapes are so stunning that you momentarily forget the country’s complicated history (until someone reminds you, and then you feel guilty for enjoying the view). It’s a place that forces you to acknowledge how small and big the world is at the same time.

Honestly, the wildlife here? Majestic. But, like, in a “Do I even deserve to be in the same space as these animals?” kind of way. Every moment felt like a nature documentary come to life—except with more sunscreen and snacks. There’s something deeply humbling about being in a place that refuses to bend to human will.  

The Call of the Wild

South Africa is a land of staggering beauty and diverse ecosystems that host some of the most iconic wildlife on the planet. From regal lions and elusive leopards to gentle giants like elephants, not to mention whales breaching off the coast and penguins waddling on the beaches—this is a place to see it all.

Where Giants Roam

My first stop was the famed Kruger National Park. The safari began with the first light of dawn, lasting from the coolness of morning until the scorching heat of midday.

As the 4×4 vehicle trundled along the rugged paths, the air was filled with the sounds of the awakening bushveld. Birdsong erupted in a melodious symphony, with the lilting calls of the Sunbird adding a sweet high note to the daybreak. The distant roar of a lion sent a thrilling shiver down my spine—partly in fear but mostly in anticipation of possibly seeing one of these majestic creatures up close. Perhaps it was just putting in a coffee order? I know I growl too before my morning brew! More likely, they were returning from an evening hunt.

I don’t know if it was my excitement or the scent of the morning that was more invigorating. There was a mix of damp earth, the slight musky odor of animals and leaves, and the fresh, crisp smell of the morning air. Even with the bit of exhaust from the 4×4 in front of mine, it was a fragrance that no city could replicate. I’m not sure I’d find it anywhere else on Earth.

As we ventured deeper, a small group of elephants appeared, their massive forms moving quietly except for the occasional crack of branches as they fed or rubbed up against the rough bark of a Marula tree. Later, the sight of a leopard lounging in the boughs of a tree was a visual feast. Its spotted coat blended seamlessly with the dappled sunlight filtering through the leaves, and I would have missed her entirely if not for the guide pointing her out as he slowed the vehicle to a stop for us to get a good look.

We approached a watering hole, and the soft grunt of a nearby rhino drew my gaze. I marveled at the prehistoric contours of its hide and chuckled at the tiny bird riding on its back like it was king of the world. How these two creatures—one so massive and designed for brute force and the other so small and delicate—came together in a symbiotic relationship was awe-inspiring.

I figured the birds would peck at bugs on the rhino, feeding themselves and keeping pesky insects away, but I learned a bit more about their interaction. These birds are “Oxpeckers” and they share a complex bond with rhinos. Their Swahili name, “askari wa kifaru,” translates to “the rhino’s guard.” This name hints at their role as both helpers and potential parasites.

Oxpeckers are known for their pest control services. They feed on ticks, flies, and other parasites that cling to the rhino’s hide. By doing so, they help keep the rhinos free from annoying insects. However, oxpeckers also have a darker side. They occasionally peck at wounds on the rhino’s body and drink their blood. Yes, those seemingly helpful birds are washing down bugs with a healthy helping of blood. But here’s the cool part: anecdotes and folklore suggest that oxpeckers serve as a secondary warning system to the rhino. When danger approaches—whether it’s a predator or even a human hunter—the oxpeckers emit a hissing call, alerting their rhino hosts. Rhinos, with their poor vision, benefit from this early warning.

Here’s the sad part: while red-billed oxpeckers remain widespread, their numbers have dwindled due to pesticides. Reintroducing them in areas where black rhinos live could aid the host species, which is currently critically endangered, with just over 5,000 individual black rhinos worldwide. Fortunately, conservation efforts are underway to do just that. Talk about the power of a tiny bird! You can learn more about it at rhinorecoveryfund.org.

As the sun climbed higher, signaling the end of our morning sojourn, I left with a sense of wonder and a deeper understanding of this delicate ecosystem.