Albania: Beaches, Bunkers and Burek
Why this beautifully bumpy ride belongs on your travel radar
Let me just say this: Albania is like that friend who used to be a total mess in high school—backwards baseball hat, questionable fashion choices, mysterious family drama—but suddenly shows up years later with great cheekbones, beach house vibes, and a surprisingly good grilled fish recipe. You didn’t see it coming, but now you’re curious to get re-acquainted.
This first-hand guide covers everything you need to know about visiting Albania—castles, coastlines, and culture shocks, PLUS travel tips for solo women and LGBTQ+ visitors.
So Why Albania?
Coastal beauty minus the sticker shock. The beaches are basically Italy’s sun-kissed cousins (albeit second cousins once-removed), the mountains are dramatic in that “I might write poetry here” way, and the people? Unfiltered, fiercely friendly, and—depending on their age—possibly armed with an espresso and an opinion about your footwear.
It’s the kind of place where you can hike through ancient ruins in the morning, eat shrimp caught an hour ago for lunch, and accidentally end up at a roadside bunker-turned-museum-slash-wine-bar by dinner. You know, standard Tuesday.
And, coffee is very important to the culture here. So they completely understand the driving force to start the day with a cup. My kind of place!
A Quick History for the Curious
Up until the early ‘90s, Albania was a black hole of mystery behind a Communist curtain.
But then the borders opened, the world came peeking in, and Albania slowly started inviting people over. It hasn’t quite Marie Kondo’d its tourism infrastructure yet, but the charm? Chef’s kiss.
Today, you’ll find high-speed Wi-Fi in one café, and a guy herding goats past a Cold War bunker in the next town over. It’s a unique experience and filled with contradictions and contrasts.
What to See: Cities, Castles, and “the rose oil cure”
- Tirana: The capital, full of color-blocked buildings, caffeine, and an energy that feels like everyone is slightly late to something but very okay with it. Take a walking tour to learn the history and see all the interesting crevices of the town, and don’t miss the Bunk’Art museum and Datji cable car.
- Berat: AKA the “City of a Thousand Windows.” It’s basically a real-life storybook filled with Ottoman architecture—but with better baklava and cool stone bridges. Old Ottoman houses spill down the hills like white Legos. You’ll wander cobblestone alleys so charming you won’t even mind twisting your ankle. And if you do, someone may just approach you and put rose oil on it to help with swelling. I did not know that people carried rose oil around with them until this happened.
- Gjirokastër: Another UNESCO beauty. Think castles, cobblestones, and a Cold War tunnel that screams “We were definitely paranoid in the ‘80s.” Bonus: Qifqi. It’s rice balls with mint. Don’t miss a visit to Gjirokaster Castle, and the Old Bazaar, a colorful pedestrian area full of shops selling local crafts and traditional food stalls and restaurants. Of all places in Albania, here is where I found the best food and authentic culture. I’d stay here a few days and while you’re here, visit the Barrels vineyard for the wine and the breathtaking views. You can also go horseback riding in this area.
- Himarë & the Albanian Riviera: Beaches. With cliffs. And turquoise water that makes you wonder why you ever bothered with overcrowded Mediterranean mega-resorts. You’ll sweat getting to some of them (looking at you, Gjipe), but that’s just cardio with a sea view. More on the beaches below.
- Shkodër: Come for the lake, stay for the fish stew (and food tour!—yes, this area also has excellent food), and absolutely visit the prison museum that reminds you Albania didn’t always serve sunsets and seafood platters. Of course, there’s also the Rozafa Castle. Rent a bike if you really want to feel like a local!
- Permet: Home of the Benja Hot Springs, a relaxing sulfur spring surrounded by rocks and a stone arch bridge. Its free and public, but there are NO services here. No toilets. Bring your bathing suit and towel, and be prepared to hike in.
- Castles Galore: Berat, Krujë, Rozafa, Porto Palermo—each one perched high and filled with history, ghosts, or goats (sometimes all three). Krujë has a delightful traditional bazaar as well.
- Albanian Alps & Komani Lake: Kayak the lake or hike the trail from Theth to Valbona, or just chill by the Shala River. You’ll also find lovely guesthouses all along the hiking trails in this area.
Let’s Talk Beaches: Bring Your Bikini and Your Patience
Albania has about 280 miles of coastline, and let me tell you—some of it is gorgeous. The kind of beaches that make you want to stage a spontaneous swimsuit photo shoot, even if your last ab workout was in 2006. The water’s a dreamy turquoise, the cliffs are cinematic, and the sun? Relentless in a “did I pack enough SPF?” kind of way.
But—and this is a big sandy but—not all Albanian beaches are created equal. Some are spotless stretches of paradise, others look like they lost a bar fight with a plastic bag factory. Sadly, there are more of the latter. If the beach looks sketchy when you get there, move on, there’s another not far away. I also highly recommend Himarë or one of the other smaller towns vs. Sarandë or Ksamil which are both suffering from overtourism due to virality on social media. Not only were they overpopulated and not kept clean, but also overpriced. The best beaches here will be the private ones—a chair/umbrella at one of the clubs will run about $15-30 per day.
While things might change by the year/season/month/day, here’s what I experienced:
Southern Albania = The Jackpot (aka the Albanian Riviera)
This is where the Ionian Sea throws its best party.
- Gjipe Beach is a dream—remote, peaceful, and accessed via a 30-minute hike that doubles as your quad workout for the week. No crowds, no concrete, just you, a few beach bars, and that “am I on a movie set?” view. Bring water. Bring snacks. Bring your will to live when climbing back out.
- Lukovë & Krorëza Beaches are the I’m-here-but-not-on-Instagram-yet gems. Clear water, white pebbles, and plenty of space to judge everyone else’s beach footwear.
- Dherme is more of the boutique vibe in hotels, shops, and restaurants.
- Pulëbardha Beach is a little harder to reach but worth it for the quiet and the crazy-clear water. Bonus: You can actually get there by bus. (No promises about the schedule.)
- Don’t miss the Grama Bay boat tour, kayaking the coast, Butrint ruins, and Porto Palermo castle in this region.
The Himarë Zone
Himarë is where Greece and Albania high-five. It’s chill, charming, and full of that relaxed, sunburned energy that says, “Sure, I’ll have another seafood platter.”
Don’t miss Porto Palermo Castle Beach—it’s got ruins and sea views. Double win. You can pretend you’re storming a medieval fortress while secretly looking for a snack cart.
Northern Beaches? Meh…
Velipoja Beach is decent for families, with soft sand and calm waters. Just pack a picnic and manage your expectations.
Avoid Shëngjin, unless your idea of a beach day includes concrete, cigarette butts, and an existential crisis.
But Rana e Hedhun? Now that’s a comeback story. Dunes, soft sand, and slowly getting cleaned up—like your college roommate who finally figured out dry shampoo.
Durrës Beaches: Close, Crowded, and Kinda Chaos
If you just have to dip your toes in the sea near Tirana, head to Shkëmbi i Kavajës or Lalzi Bay—but don’t say I didn’t warn you. You’ll be fighting for towel space with everyone and their grandmother (literally).
For something more peaceful, try Kallmi Beach. It’s pebbly, yes, but pretty—and far fewer people peacocking around in speedos.
Beach Survival Tips, Albanian Style
- Bring your own shade unless you love playing “dodge the sunburn.” They don’t have much in the way of umbrella rentals here, but you can buy one in some city shops.
- Order the seafood, but ask other tourists for restaurant recs before you shell out $20 for what turns out to be a microwaved fish stick. Unfortunately, they know that there will be hungry, and not so picky, tourists, and many places take advantage of that. Ask for recommendations from others on the beach.
- Watch where you step: trash pickup is still… “aspirational” at best in some spots.
- Want to camp on the beach? You can, and Gjipe is a great spot for it. Just pack in everything, as there are no services here. The vibe is Robinson Crusoe, not glamping. Don’t forget to pack everything out too.
Important things to know:
Currency, Language & Religions:
- The official currency of Albania is the leke, and locals pay everything in cash. Plan ahead as cards are not widely accepted.
- English is fairly widely spoken (as is Italian), but the official language is Albanian Shqip.
- All religions are welcome here, and you will often find a church, mosque, Orthodox church, and synagogue within a few blocks of each other.
Ladies Traveling Solo:
You’ll likely get more attention than you’re used to—some of it friendly, some of it… let’s call it enthusiastically traditional. Smile, keep your confidence zipped up next to your passport, and don’t be afraid to say “no” like you mean it. I found the men in Sarande to be particularly persistent in pursuing female tourists. For the beaches, I found Himare to be not only sparklingly beautiful but also very safe and relaxed.
Stick to populated areas at night, ask women for help when in doubt (they’ll help—and probably insist you stay for coffee), and wear whatever you like, but maybe skip the strappy mini-dress when you’re inland visiting great-auntie’s church ruins. Respect and coverage are required in religious and more conservative areas outside the tourist zones.
LGBTQ+ Travelers: Bring the Fabulous, But Pack the Caution
Legally speaking, Albania has protections. Socially? It’s still catching up. Big cities like Tirana are slowly growing safer and more open, but public displays of affection might earn you unwanted stares—or worse—in more rural areas.
If you’re LGBTQ+, it’s worth connecting with local groups like United Pro LGBT Albania for advice and up-to-date info. Because while Albania has layers (and some of them are great), it’s still learning how to love out loud.
When to Go & Getting Around:
Timing your Trip: Sweat vs. Serenity
Summer = hot, crowded, and full of beach bros in neon tank tops.
Spring and fall = heaven. Think May and September–October: warm water, empty trails, shoulder-season prices, and the perfect excuse to “accidentally” stay longer than planned.
How to Get There (and Around Without Cursing)
Flying into Tirana is stupidly cheap from most of Europe. You’ll spend more on airport snacks than on your flight. Once you land, do yourself a favor: rent a car with some muscle. Albania’s roads are part NASCAR, part scenic goat trail. A 4WD is your best friend. Unless your best friend is a bus—then bring snacks and settle in for a ride that may or may not arrive on time. Or ever.
Going from place to place—the specifics:
- Furgons: these minibuses charge around $1-$15 for an intercity trip, are unlicensed and the most common way to get around. Pack your sense of adventure.
- Busses, while less frequent, and on a schedule that fluctuates more than a teenager’s love life, are available for travel between major cities.
- Taxis are available, can be hailed on the street or picked up at taxi stands (recommended), but can be expensive. Negotiate before you get in as meters are usually non-existent or “broken”.
- Car rentals: fairly cheap, but as mentioned above, go with a four-wheel drive vehicle with some heft.
Yes, you should see Albania for yourself.
Albania isn’t polished. It’s not curated. It’s not pretending to be Santorini’s twin. And that’s exactly why you should go.
You’ll find beaches so pretty they feel illegal. Food so fresh it practically swims to your plate. Ruins older than your sense of direction. And a country still figuring out how to be a travel darling without selling its soul.
It’s a little rough. A little wild. A bit dirty and messy in many places, and a whole lot wonderful.
Just don’t forget your SPF. Or your sense of humor.
