Solo in Alexandria, Egypt:
A wind-swept walk through time
It’s not Cairo. And that’s exactly why you should go.
Curious? Here’s what to see, eat, and experience if you’re traveling solo in Egypt’s moody Mediterranean soul.
There’s something beautifully strange about Alexandria. Even though the ancient Lighthouse of Alexandria no longer exists, you come for the ancient history, the sea air, maybe a little Cleopatra mystique—and find yourself lingering in a city that’s both salt-worn and scholarly, like a well-read postcard that never got mailed. We all have a few of those, don’t we?
If Cairo is Egypt’s bold, blazing heart, Alexandria is its moody, Mediterranean soul. As a solo female traveler, it’s an easy place to breathe, to wander, to just be. It’s not the same tourist hub as Cairo—but it rewards your curiosity, and calms the soul. After all, you’re walking on history, breathing the same salty air as queens, conquerors, and poets.
Here’s what I loved, what I learned, and where you might want to linger too.
The Bibliotheca Alexandrina: A Quiet, Gleaming Wonder
Let’s start where it all began—or at least where it was reimagined. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a modern homage to the legendary ancient library that was sadly lost to time (and likely fire, conquest, or some very careless Romans).
This one’s a beauty—sleek and sunlit, with enough bookish energy to make even non-readers feel philosophical. Designed by a Norwegian firm, it looks like a tilted sundial poised over the sea. Inside, the reading hall is a peaceful maze of light and wood and endless shelves in every language imaginable.
It’s the kind of place where you could spend hours people-watching in silence, or just catching up in your journal. Nobody bothers you. It’s a solo traveler’s dream: calm, cultural, oh, and blissfully air-conditioned.
Fort Qaitbay (Qaitbay Citadel):
Built in the 15th century on the exact site of the long-lost Lighthouse of Alexandria, Fort Qaitbay sits dramatically at the edge of the Mediterranean.
The inside is spare, but the rooftop views? Worth every uneven step to get to. You can almost feel the ghost of the ancient lighthouse standing guard behind you, reminding you that this city once lit the way for sailors from every corner of the known world.
TIP: Go early before the tour buses roll in. You’ll get that golden morning light and maybe even the place (almost) to yourself.
Kom El Shoqafa: Underworld, Egyptian-Style
Some cities hide their history in museums. Alexandria buries it deep underground. Literally. The Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa are a fascinating jumble of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman design. You descend a spiral staircase into a cool, quiet world where statues wear togas and pharaohs pose like Roman emperors. It’s weird, wonderful, and more than a little surreal. I absolutely love it.
TIP: Bring a headlamp or use your phone light—some parts get dark, and while it adds to the mystery, you’ll want to see the carvings without tripping on a 2,000-year-old step.
Pompey’s Pillar & the Serapeum: Rome Meets Egypt
Okay, full honesty: Pompey’s Pillar isn’t going to knock your socks off if you’ve seen, say, the Colosseum. But it is the tallest ancient column in Egypt, and it’s surrounded by sphinxes. Plus, it’s a quick stop that pairs well with the catacombs nearby.
It is the only thing that remains of a massive temple colonnade marking the location of the Serpeum. The entire structure, with the exception of this single pillar was totally destroyed during the fourth century when the Christians were attempting to eradicate paganism from the city.
Today, Pompey’s Pillar is one of the most visited attractions in Alexandria. It’s the kind of spot that reminds you Alexandria was once Rome’s darling port city—bustling, cosmopolitan, and layered with belief systems stacked like pottery shards.
Roman Amphitheatre & Villa of the Birds: Accidental Treasures
Discovered during construction in the 1960s (oops), the Roman Amphitheatre is a compact but charming site with rows of marble seats and occasional music performances. Nearby, the Villa of the Birds shows off gorgeous floor mosaics—some shockingly well preserved.
TIP: If you’re a history nerd (raises hand), combine this with a walking tour. The stories behind the stones make the experience way more memorable.
Souq District Strolling: Saffron, Spices, and Real Life
If you like your markets a little gritty and full of personality, Alexandria’s souq district won’t disappoint. It’s smaller and more navigable than Cairo’s, with locals selling everything from handwoven scarves to pyramids made of paprika. The district is divided into multiple souks, each specializing in a set of goods, from fabrics to antiques to food, and home goods. And don’t forget to haggle. It’s expected.
TIP: As a foreigner, you will be noticed. But I found the energy more curious than pushy. And everyone was kind. Walk with confidence, say “la shukran” (no thank you) with a smile, enjoy a cup of tea when offered, or if you want to be left alone, wear your don’t-mess-with-me sunglasses (it might work, it might not).
Eat Fresh, Eat Local: Seafood by the Sea
Alexandria’s location means the seafood is stellar—especially if you like your fish grilled, your calamari tender, and your view sparkling.
My go-to: a breezy spot with plastic chairs and locals eating with their hands. Order sayadiyah (spiced fish with rice), and chase it with a strong, sugary tea or a cool hibiscus drink. A few great seafood places are Abo Noura and Zafeer.
My Favorite Bite: Feteer, Egypt’s flaky layered pastry that can be sweet (honey + nuts) or savory (cheese, spinach, or even beef) I love the savory ones! Ask a local where to go—they’ll point you in the right direction, usually with a smile and a warning not to eat too much!
Since we’re talking food: Head to Mokambo patisserie for chou. Manna Patisserie for éclaire & Mille-feuille. Saber Pastry for Egyptian rice pudding. Try the decadent breakfast at Windsor Palace Hôtel by the sea. Sidra for dinner and the sunset view. For the adventurous, try the liver sandwiches sold by street vendors and fine restaurants, alike.
Corniche Sunset Strolls
The Corniche is Alexandria’s winding, sea-hugging promenade, perfect for solo wandering. Come early in the morning or around sunset when the breeze kicks up, the sky turns dusty pink, and the city feels a little softer.
You’ll see teens taking selfies, families eating corn on the cob, and older men deep in conversation. And you’ll just… belong.
TIP: Don’t rush it. Sit. Watch. Enjoy.
A few more tips
- Dress Code: Modest, especially outside tourist zones. Think light, loose clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. Don’t be that person who insults the locals by being dressed inappropriately.
- When to go: Winter is the ideal time although it gets chilly after dark. Summer is hot and humid.
- Getting Around: Uber works well. Walking is fine on the Corniche but watch out for uneven paving and informal traffic rules in most places.
- Where to Stay: Look for hotels near Stanley Bridge or the Bibliotheca for access to sites, cafés, and safer surroundings.
- Cash vs Cards: You’ll need cash for street vendors and small purchases, but many historic sites only accept cards.
- Day Trip Idea: Head to Rosetta (Rashid)—a peaceful town where the famous stone was found. Fewer tourists, more charm.
Want to explore more of Egypt? Check out my article about Cairo here.