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Albania: Beaches, Bunkers, and Burek—Why This Beautifully Bumpy Ride Belongs on Your Travel Radar

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Albania: Beaches, Bunkers and Burek Why this beautifully bumpy ride belongs on your travel radar Let me just say this: Albania is like that friend who used to be a total mess in high school—backwards baseball hat, questionable fashion choices, mysterious family drama—but suddenly shows up years later with great cheekbones, beach house vibes, and a surprisingly good grilled fish recipe. You didn’t see it coming, but now you’re curious to get re-acquainted. This first-hand guide covers everything you need to know about visiting Albania—castles, coastlines, and culture shocks, PLUS travel tips for solo women and LGBTQ+ visitors. So Why Albania? Coastal beauty minus the sticker shock. The beaches are basically Italy’s sun-kissed cousins (albeit second cousins once-removed), the mountains are dramatic in that “I might write poetry here” way, and the people? Unfiltered, fiercely friendly, and—depending on their age—possibly armed with an espresso and an opinion about your footwear.   It’s the kind of place where you can hike through ancient ruins in the morning, eat shrimp caught an hour ago for lunch, and accidentally end up at a roadside bunker-turned-museum-slash-wine-bar by dinner. You know, standard Tuesday.   And, coffee is very important to the culture here.  So they completely understand the driving force to start the day with a cup.  My kind of place! A Quick History for the Curious Up until the early ‘90s, Albania was a black hole of mystery behind a Communist curtain.   But then the borders opened, the world came peeking in, and Albania slowly started inviting people over. It hasn’t quite Marie Kondo’d its tourism infrastructure yet, but the charm? Chef’s kiss.   Today, you’ll find high-speed Wi-Fi in one café, and a guy herding goats past a Cold War bunker in the next town over. It’s a unique experience and filled with contradictions and contrasts. What to See: Cities, Castles, and “the rose oil cure” Tirana: The capital, full of color-blocked buildings, caffeine, and an energy that feels like everyone is slightly late to something but very okay with it. Take a walking tour to learn the history and see all the interesting crevices of the town, and don’t miss the Bunk’Art museum and Datji cable car. Berat: AKA the “City of a Thousand Windows.” It’s basically a real-life storybook filled with Ottoman architecture—but with better baklava and cool stone bridges. Old Ottoman houses spill down the hills like white Legos. You’ll wander cobblestone alleys so charming you won’t even mind twisting your ankle.  And if you do, someone may just approach you and put rose oil on it to help with swelling.  I did not know that people carried rose oil around with them until this happened.  Gjirokastër: Another UNESCO beauty. Think castles, cobblestones, and a Cold War tunnel that screams “We were definitely paranoid in the ‘80s.” Bonus: Qifqi. It’s rice balls with mint. Don’t miss a visit to Gjirokaster Castle, and the Old Bazaar, a colorful pedestrian area full of shops selling local crafts and traditional food stalls and restaurants.  Of all places in Albania, here is where I found the best food and authentic culture.  I’d stay here a few days and while you’re here, visit the Barrels vineyard for the wine and the breathtaking views.  You can also go horseback riding in this area. Himarë & the Albanian Riviera: Beaches. With cliffs. And turquoise water that makes you wonder why you ever bothered with overcrowded Mediterranean mega-resorts. You’ll sweat getting to some of them (looking at you, Gjipe), but that’s just cardio with a sea view. More on the beaches below. Shkodër: Come for the lake, stay for the fish stew (and food tour!—yes, this area also has excellent food), and absolutely visit the prison museum that reminds you Albania didn’t always serve sunsets and seafood platters. Of course, there’s also the Rozafa Castle. Rent a bike if you really want to feel like a local! Permet: Home of the Benja Hot Springs, a relaxing sulfur spring surrounded by rocks and a stone arch bridge.  Its free and public, but there are NO services here.  No toilets.  Bring your bathing suit and towel, and be prepared to hike in. Castles Galore: Berat, Krujë, Rozafa, Porto Palermo—each one perched high and filled with history, ghosts, or goats (sometimes all three).  Krujë has a delightful traditional bazaar as well.   Albanian Alps & Komani Lake: Kayak the lake or hike the trail from Theth to Valbona, or just chill by the Shala River. You’ll also find lovely guesthouses all along the hiking trails in this area. Let’s Talk Beaches: Bring Your Bikini and Your Patience Albania has about 280 miles of coastline, and let me tell you—some of it is gorgeous. The kind of beaches that make you want to stage a spontaneous swimsuit photo shoot, even if your last ab workout was in 2006. The water’s a dreamy turquoise, the cliffs are cinematic, and the sun? Relentless in a “did I pack enough SPF?” kind of way.   But—and this is a big sandy but—not all Albanian beaches are created equal. Some are spotless stretches of paradise, others look like they lost a bar fight with a plastic bag factory.  Sadly, there are more of the latter.  If the beach looks sketchy when you get there, move on, there’s another not far away.  I also highly recommend Himarë or one of the other smaller towns vs. Sarandë or Ksamil which are both suffering from overtourism due to virality on social media.  Not only were they overpopulated and not kept clean, but also overpriced.  The best beaches here will be the private ones—a chair/umbrella at one of the clubs will run about $15-30 per day.   While things might change by the year/season/month/day, here’s what I experienced: Southern Albania = The Jackpot (aka the Albanian Riviera) This is where the Ionian Sea throws its best party. Gjipe Beach is a dream—remote, peaceful, and accessed via a 30-minute hike that doubles as your quad workout for the week.

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el arroz con leche guatemala

Your Guide to Guatemala: Color, Culture, Coffee, and Connection

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Your Guide to Guatemala: Color, Culture, Coffee and Connection Guatemala is one of those places that hits all your senses at once—it’s got fire-breathing volcanoes, ancient jungle-covered ruins, and lakes that shimmer and sparkle in the sunlight. It’s also where you’ll find warm hospitality, complex history, and a kaleidoscope of color at every turn—from the food, to the fabrics and the building facades. In the cities, you’ll catch the smell of tortillas cooking over a wood fire, hear the buzz of tuk-tuks whizzing past colonial buildings, and feel the way everyone says buenos días like they mean it. Oh, and there’s coffee. Lots and lots of delicious coffee… It’s got enough culture, nature, and charm to keep you busy, but it also lets you slow down when you need to. Whether you’re a first-timer dipping your toe into Central America or a return visitor chasing that “I can’t believe this is real” feeling, Guatemala has something for you. Fancy hotel or hostel bunk bed, travel solo or with a crew—this place is flexible like that. Beyond its better-known destinations like Antigua and Lake Atitlán, Guatemala rewards the curious. The lesser-visited regions—Rio Dulce, Semuc Champey, the coffee-growing highlands—offer equal parts adventure and authenticity. This guide is here to help you do Guatemala your way—whether you’re here for a whirlwind two weeks or a longer, soul-stretching stay. Highlights and Routes Here’s a rough outline of the most popular—and rewarding—travel loops through the country: Antigua: The charming colonial heart of Guatemala, filled with cobblestone streets, pastel churches, Spanish-language schools, and some of the best coffee you’ll ever sip. Lake Atitlán: A crater lake surrounded by volcanoes and villages, each with its own personality. San Marcos is spiritual and sleepy, while San Pedro is laid-back and lively. Semuc Champey: Turquoise pools perched above a roaring river. It’s a trek to get here—but the reward is a jungle paradise. Tikal: Towering Maya temples in the northern Petén region. Stay overnight and catch sunrise from the top of a pyramid as howler monkeys stir the canopy. El Paredón: Surf town vibes meet sunrise skies painted in mango and magenta. Rio Dulce & Livingston: For something slower-paced and Caribbean-tinged, paddle through lotus-covered rivers and explore Garifuna culture. And don’t skip a coffee tour while in Antigua—De La Gente runs an incredible nonprofit operation that not only “tastes” great but tells the full story of Guatemala’s coffee industry, straight from the source. Is Guatemala Safe for Solo Female Travelers? Let’s be honest: Guatemala has a reputation that makes some travelers pause. Is there crime? Yes. Is it all aimed at tourists? Not remotely.  Most is outside tourist areas and most does not involve foreigners.  For solo women, the key is not fear—but awareness. My safety tips, woman-to-woman: Stick to the well-travelled trail. You’ll meet plenty of locals and fellow travelers along the way in the major tourist areas. Avoid night buses and limit nighttime travel overall. Roads can be winding and unsafe, and it’s harder to stay alert after dark.  And no matter when you are on a bus, DO NOT FALL ASLEEP.  This is like an open invitation to be robbed.  I recommend downloading a few good audiobooks or entertaining podcasts to keep you engaged and alert when on public transportation. Book shuttles in advance through your guesthouse or trusted agencies. Chicken buses are a local experience, yes, but they come with their own set of risks (more on that below). Dress with cultural awareness. This doesn’t mean dressing drab—just respectful. In indigenous communities, covering shoulders and thighs is appreciated. Keep bags in your lap on public transport—not overhead or under the seat. Don’t flash your tech or cash. Classic advice, still relevant. Trust your gut. It’s your best travel companion. I felt incredibly welcomed traveling solo in Guatemala. Locals were kind, helpful, and proud to share their culture. Just remember that confidence, awareness, and a good dose of common sense are always your best tools on the road. Getting Around Chicken buses: Colorful, chaotic, and cheap—but hold tight. They’re fast, crowded, and best avoided with large luggage or after dark. Shuttles: The easiest way to hop between popular towns. You can book online through sites like Bookaway or locally through guesthouses. Tuk-tuks: Common in smaller towns. Negotiate the fare before you hop in. Food — yes, please! Guatemalan food is deeply rooted in Maya traditions, layered with Spanish influences and local creativity. It’s hearty, comforting, and full of subtle spice and smoke—less fiery than its Mexican neighbor, but no less flavorful. If you’re the kind of traveler who explores a place bite by bite (guilty), Guatemala’s food scene will keep you curious and full.   What to Expect from Guatemalan Cuisine At its core, Guatemalan food is corn-based, with staples like tortillas, tamales, and atole (a warm, corn-thickened drink). You’ll find beans and rice on almost every plate, but it’s the sauces—often made with roasted tomatoes, chilies, sesame, or pumpkin seeds—that give dishes their depth. Guatemalan cooking tends to be mild, but not bland; it leans into earthy flavors, slow-cooked meats, and rich, homey stews.   Here are a few of my favorite traditional dishes—give them a try while you’re here. Pepián Often considered Guatemala’s national dish, this thick stew blends roasted spices, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, and tomatoes into a richly seasoned sauce served with chicken (or sometimes beef), potatoes, and rice. It’s warming, earthy, and complex. Jocon de Pollo A bright green stew made with chicken and tomatillos, cilantro, and green onions. Think tangy and herbal, typically served with rice. Kak’ik A traditional Mayan turkey soup from the highlands, made with achiote (annatto), tomatoes, and spices. It’s known for its vibrant red color and soul-satisfying flavor. Tamales These are nothing like their Mexican cousins. Guatemalan tamales are often large, wrapped in banana leaves, and filled with masa (corn dough) and seasoned meat or vegetables. They’re usually reserved for weekends or celebrations. Chiles Rellenos Bell peppers stuffed with spiced meat and vegetables, then battered

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Women at coffee plantation guatemala

Coffee, Culture & Volcanos: Guatemala for Coffee Lovers

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Coffee, Culture and Volcanoes: A perfect 10-day Guatemala itinerary for coffee lovers When you love coffee enough to plan a trip around it, Guatemala is a perfect place to start. It’s like walking into the tasting notes on the back of your favorite bag of beans—chocolatey, citrusy, bold, and a little earthy. But here, you get to meet the farmers behind the flavor, walk the volcanic soil that nourishes the plants, and sip the good stuff right where it’s grown. It’s coffee with context—and wow, does it taste better for it. Guatemala is one of the most celebrated coffee producers in the world. Its high altitudes, rich volcanic soil, and diverse microclimates create flavor profiles that range from smooth and toasty to bright and floral. And as if that weren’t enough, many farms here are shifting toward more sustainable and ethical practices—supporting local cooperatives, preserving biodiversity, and focusing on quality over quantity. Are you ready for a full-bodied adventure—bold, aromatic, and best sipped slowly?  Let’s jump in. A Taste of Guatemala’s Coffee Regions I visited three of Guatemala’s top-growing regions—each with its own flavor, personality, and altitude-induced charm: Antigua This is the “classic” Guatemalan profile—rich, smooth, and chocolatey with a silky body and just a “whisper of toffee”. The farms here are nestled between volcanoes, and many estates date back centuries. You can smell the roast in the morning air as you wander past pastel-colored buildings and cobblestone streets.  Huehuetenango Say that three times fast, then sip something bright and beautiful to reward yourself. This high-elevation region produces some of the country’s most sought-after beans. Expect fruity, floral notes with a vibrant acidity that dances on your tongue. It’s complex, elegant, and surprisingly light. A region for true aficionados—and a bit of a trek, but totally worth it. Lake Atitlán Imagine sipping a cup of single-origin coffee on a quiet terrace overlooking a glassy crater lake flanked by three dramatic volcanoes. That’s Atitlán. The coffee here is grown on the steep volcanic slopes around the lake and tends to be balanced, medium-bodied, and wonderfully smooth. It’s the kind of cup you savor—preferably barefoot, hammock-adjacent. The Ultimate 10-Day Guatemala Coffee Itinerary Yes, you can absolutely build your entire trip around coffee—and still experience volcano hikes, Maya villages, artisan markets, and sunsets so beautiful they’ll make you forget about checking your phone. Here’s how to make the most of it: Days 1–3: Antigua – Colonial Charm & Chocolatey Beans Day 1Arrive at La Aurora International Airport (GUA) and transfer to Antigua. The air here is cooler—thanks to the elevation—and smells faintly of wood smoke and roasted beans. Ease into things with a gentle walk around the main square, where ruins and cafés live side by side. Day 2Time for your first real coffee experience. Visit a working plantation (I recommend Filadelfia Coffee Resort with a tour by De La Gente) and learn the process from bean to brew. Just outside of Antigua—where the volcanoes loom like sleepy giants and the air smells faintly of woodsmoke and bougainvillea—you’ll find Finca Filadelfia, a working coffee estate that’s been roasting, brewing, and buzzing since 1870. This is not your average farm tour. It’s an immersive, sip-it-while-it’s-hot kind of experience that walks you through the life of a coffee bean—from sprout to steaming cup. You’ll walk the fields, pick coco cherries if they’re in season, and roast beans over an open flame. Later, stroll through town past the Santa Catalina Arch and La Merced Church, or grab a street tamale to go with your second (or third—no judgement here!) cup. Day 3Explore local markets or sign up for a Guatemalan cooking class. If you’re feeling ambitious, hike up Pacaya Volcano—it’s an active one, so you’ll feel the heat underfoot and see lava flows glowing like embers. Trust me: your post-hike coffee will never taste better. Before we leave Antigua, let me tell you a bit more of what to expect on a coffee plantation tour.  This was the tour at Filadelfia Plantation, and is similar at each of the plantation visits, varying based on landscape and season. The tour begins in the baby section—rows of tiny green coffee plants tucked into the nursery like proud little students on their first day of school. So cute!  Here, you’ll learn how a bean becomes a bush and how those highland conditions—volcanic soil, cool nights, misty mornings—do most of the magic. Walk the Plantation Next, you’ll wander through lush coffee groves, where the trees stretch wide and low, cherries ripening in the dappled light. Your guide (usually a local with serious coffee chops and a great sense of humor) will explain how and when beans are picked, and why Guatemala’s altitude and shade-grown practices are what give the coffee that smooth, low-acid profile. You might even spot a few workers hauling sacks of cherries—it’s humbling and beautiful and smells like earth, sun, and sweetness. See the Processing in Action Then comes the behind-the-scenes part most folks never think about: washing, drying, and sorting the beans. You’ll walk by clay patios where beans are sun-dried the old-fashioned way, and peek into the processing rooms where they’re hulled and prepped for roasting. You’ll hear the rattle of machinery, the swish of beans cascading like tiny pebbles, and maybe even get your hands on a few green beans to feel the difference in moisture and weight. Roast, Sip, Repeat Finally—finally!—you arrive at the tasting. You’ll head into the roastery where warm, toasty air hits you in the face (in the best way), and you’ll sample a cup of Filadelfia’s house roast. Smooth, chocolatey, with a little volcanic minerality that lingers. It tastes even better when you’ve seen where it started. Good to Know: Tours take about 90 minutes—long enough to dive deep, short enough to leave time for another coffee. Cost is around $25 USD per person.  For the Filadelfia Plantation, they scoop you up from Antigua in a safari-style truck (or even an ATV if you’re up for it).  Talk to

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Alexandria Egypt qaitbay citadel and boats

Alexandria, Egypt: A Wind-Swept Walk Through Time as a Solo Traveler

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Solo in Alexandria, Egypt: A wind-swept walk through time It’s not Cairo. And that’s exactly why you should go. Curious? Here’s what to see, eat, and experience if you’re traveling solo in Egypt’s moody Mediterranean soul. There’s something beautifully strange about Alexandria. Even though the ancient Lighthouse of Alexandria no longer exists, you come for the ancient history, the sea air, maybe a little Cleopatra mystique—and find yourself lingering in a city that’s both salt-worn and scholarly, like a well-read postcard that never got mailed.  We all have a few of those, don’t we? If Cairo is Egypt’s bold, blazing heart, Alexandria is its moody, Mediterranean soul. As a solo female traveler, it’s an easy place to breathe, to wander, to just be.  It’s not the same tourist hub as Cairo—but it rewards your curiosity, and calms the soul. After all, you’re walking on history, breathing the same salty air as queens, conquerors, and poets. Here’s what I loved, what I learned, and where you might want to linger too. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina: A Quiet, Gleaming Wonder Let’s start where it all began—or at least where it was reimagined. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a modern homage to the legendary ancient library that was sadly lost to time (and likely fire, conquest, or some very careless Romans).   This one’s a beauty—sleek and sunlit, with enough bookish energy to make even non-readers feel philosophical. Designed by a Norwegian firm, it looks like a tilted sundial poised over the sea. Inside, the reading hall is a peaceful maze of light and wood and endless shelves in every language imaginable.   It’s the kind of place where you could spend hours people-watching in silence, or just catching up in your journal. Nobody bothers you. It’s a solo traveler’s dream: calm, cultural, oh, and blissfully air-conditioned.   Fort Qaitbay (Qaitbay Citadel): Built in the 15th century on the exact site of the long-lost Lighthouse of Alexandria, Fort Qaitbay sits dramatically at the edge of the Mediterranean.   The inside is spare, but the rooftop views? Worth every uneven step to get to. You can almost feel the ghost of the ancient lighthouse standing guard behind you, reminding you that this city once lit the way for sailors from every corner of the known world.   TIP: Go early before the tour buses roll in. You’ll get that golden morning light and maybe even the place (almost) to yourself.   Kom El Shoqafa: Underworld, Egyptian-Style Some cities hide their history in museums. Alexandria buries it deep underground. Literally.  The Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa are a fascinating jumble of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman design. You descend a spiral staircase into a cool, quiet world where statues wear togas and pharaohs pose like Roman emperors. It’s weird, wonderful, and more than a little surreal. I absolutely love it.   TIP: Bring a headlamp or use your phone light—some parts get dark, and while it adds to the mystery, you’ll want to see the carvings without tripping on a 2,000-year-old step. Pompey’s Pillar & the Serapeum: Rome Meets Egypt Okay, full honesty: Pompey’s Pillar isn’t going to knock your socks off if you’ve seen, say, the Colosseum. But it is the tallest ancient column in Egypt, and it’s surrounded by sphinxes. Plus, it’s a quick stop that pairs well with the catacombs nearby.   It is the only thing that remains of a massive temple colonnade marking the location of the Serpeum. The entire structure, with the exception of this single pillar was totally destroyed during the fourth century when the Christians were attempting to eradicate paganism from the city.   Today, Pompey’s Pillar is one of the most visited attractions in Alexandria. It’s the kind of spot that reminds you Alexandria was once Rome’s darling port city—bustling, cosmopolitan, and layered with belief systems stacked like pottery shards.     Roman Amphitheatre & Villa of the Birds: Accidental Treasures Discovered during construction in the 1960s (oops), the Roman Amphitheatre is a compact but charming site with rows of marble seats and occasional music performances. Nearby, the Villa of the Birds shows off gorgeous floor mosaics—some shockingly well preserved.   TIP: If you’re a history nerd (raises hand), combine this with a walking tour. The stories behind the stones make the experience way more memorable.   Souq District Strolling: Saffron, Spices, and Real Life If you like your markets a little gritty and full of personality, Alexandria’s souq district won’t disappoint. It’s smaller and more navigable than Cairo’s, with locals selling everything from handwoven scarves to pyramids made of paprika. The district is divided into multiple souks, each specializing in a set of goods, from fabrics to antiques to food, and home goods. And don’t forget to haggle.  It’s expected.   TIP:  As a foreigner, you will be noticed. But I found the energy more curious than pushy.  And everyone was kind. Walk with confidence, say “la shukran” (no thank you) with a smile, enjoy a cup of tea when offered, or if you want to be left alone, wear your don’t-mess-with-me sunglasses (it might work, it might not). Eat Fresh, Eat Local: Seafood by the Sea Alexandria’s location means the seafood is stellar—especially if you like your fish grilled, your calamari tender, and your view sparkling.   My go-to: a breezy spot with plastic chairs and locals eating with their hands. Order sayadiyah (spiced fish with rice), and chase it with a strong, sugary tea or a cool hibiscus drink. A few great seafood places are Abo Noura and Zafeer.   My Favorite Bite: Feteer, Egypt’s flaky layered pastry that can be sweet (honey + nuts) or savory (cheese, spinach, or even beef) I love the savory ones! Ask a local where to go—they’ll point you in the right direction, usually with a smile and a warning not to eat too much!   Since we’re talking food: Head to Mokambo patisserie for chou.  Manna Patisserie for éclaire & Mille-feuille. Saber Pastry for Egyptian rice pudding. Try the decadent breakfast at Windsor

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Coffee in Uganda plantation tour

Coffee time! Visiting a coffee plantation in Uganda

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Coffee time! Visiting a coffee plantation in Uganda You know how I love my coffee? Well this experience captured the soul of it, from the ground up. Visiting a coffee plantation near Queen Elizabeth National Park felt uniquely special because so much of Ugandan culture, traditions, and local life is wrapped up in it.  I joined a guided tour at one of the community-run farms near Kyambura Gorge, known locally as the “Valley of the Apes,” just outside the park’s boundaries. The guide warmly welcomed me into the plantation (like every other warm welcome I received in Uganda).  The plantation was set among lush hillsides with green coffee bushes sprawling in neat rows. Walking through the plantation was both peaceful and engaging, as he enthusiastically shared the farm’s history and explained the entire coffee journey—from planting and harvesting to roasting and brewing. As we moved through the tour, it became more of a hands-on experience. I actually got to pick ripe coffee cherries right from the branches. Later, I watched (and tried my hand at!) pulping and drying the beans in the traditional Ugandan way, using simple wooden equipment. It was messy, and I was terrible at it, but I laughed until my sides hurt.   The smell of freshly roasted beans filled the air as we gathered around the roasting pan, which the guide handled with practiced ease. Finally, sipping a steaming cup of fresh-brewed coffee at the end of the tour was richly satisfying!  We actually got to taste a few different kinds—all a little different.  All bold and delicious. What makes this coffee so good? Ugandan coffee, especially the arabica grown around the high-altitude regions near Queen Elizabeth, has an exceptionally smooth and mild flavor profile. The coffee from these plantations is particularly well-balanced, with subtle notes of chocolate, nuts, and hints of fruitiness. It’s less acidic than coffees from Ethiopia or Kenya, making it wonderfully gentle and easy to drink.   What makes this coffee even more special is how it’s grown. No chemicals, no shortcuts—just hard work, pride, and a whole lot of heart. It’s arabica, mostly, especially in these high-altitude regions. But across Uganda, they grow both arabica and robusta—arabica up in the mountains, robusta in the lowlands, each with its own personality and flavor profile.   Coffee Across Uganda Coffee isn’t only grown around Queen Elizabeth—it’s actually one of Uganda’s most important exports and is cultivated widely throughout the country. Mount Elgon, the Rwenzori Mountains, even around Bwindi and Lake Victoria—they say you can taste the landscape in the beans.  My palette isn’t that fine-tuned, but what I tasted, I liked.  And that was good enough for me.  Arabica coffee thrives at higher elevations, particularly in regions like Mount Elgon in the east, the Rwenzori Mountains (“Mountains of the Moon”) in the west, and around Bwindi and Queen Elizabeth. Robusta coffee, known for its strong body and robust taste, grows abundantly at lower altitudes, especially in central Uganda around Lake Victoria and the Kibale region. So if my luggage has picked up the scent of coffee, it may be from bringing a bit of this brown gold home with me—as many bags of it as I can carry 😊. To read more about my adventures in Uganda, here are a few more articles: 10-day adventure with full itinerary Chimpanzee trek in Kibale Forest Gorilla trek in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

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Gorilla in Bwindi impenetrable forest, Uganda

Why Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Should Top Your Bucket List

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Mountain Gorillas: An Unforgettable Day in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda Why Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Should Top Your Bucket List The day began before dawn—fortunately, with coffee, as I pulled on sturdy hiking boots and layers of clothing to tackle the cool mountain air. Breakfast was hearty yet quick: eggs, toast with jam, fresh fruit, and more strong Ugandan coffee. At 7:00 a.m., I arrived at the park headquarters in Buhoma, ready to meet the guides and fellow trekkers.   Our guide gave a detailed briefing, emphasizing the rules: keep a respectful distance, remain quiet, and follow the trackers’ instructions. Soon after, our small group—just six of us, accompanied by trackers—set off into the dense, mist-covered slopes of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (the name is dramatic, but accurate!)   We were warned to expect challenging terrain, and it definitely was—steep, uneven (and unmarked) trails cut through thick vegetation. It can be VERY strenuous – your hike may be just a couple of hours but it can also be for a full day of up to 8 hours or more of hiking in hot, high-altitude conditions depending on sightings – a trip like this is great inspiration for a consistent exercise plan as a bit of training.                                                                                                                                                                                                                Gorilla tracking timings and conditions vary tremendously as the gorillas move continuously through the rain forest.  It is good to be prepared and remember the weather can change with very little warning.  The forest was mesmerizing, alive with birdsong, (or the screech of a monkeys) and filled with brilliant butterflies drifting through the shafts of sunlight piercing the canopy.  Catching my breath after some of the steep climbs was the perfect excuse to look around and enjoy the rest of the life among the trees.   We trekked for about three hours, sometimes pushing through tangled vines, at other times quietly crossing streams or carefully descending slippery hillsides. Then came the moment I’ll never forget: our trackers halted suddenly, speaking softly into their radios, signaling they’d found a gorilla family. Mountain gorillas are wild animals and, as such, sightings cannot be guaranteed, yet our guide said his viewing success rates are over 90%. Once sighted, visitors are allowed an hour with the gorillas.   My heart raced as we crept closer, and there they were—just a few feet away—a family of mountain gorillas, relaxed, gentle, and astonishingly human-like. A massive male, calm and majestic, observed us with mild curiosity while watching over the family. Younger gorillas wrestled and played nearby, tumbling over each other like joyful kids. One female cradled a tiny baby close to her chest, glancing our way briefly before returning to grooming her infant. A few of the younger ones ran up and down the hill where we were all perched like statues, brushing past and climbing over us as if we didn’t exist. It was wild.  I wanted to reach out and pet them, but we had all been sternly trained not to. I was surprised by how peaceful it felt to simply sit and observe them. We spent exactly one hour—a carefully timed privilege—watching their interactions, snapping photos, and savoring each extraordinary moment. It was profoundly moving and humbling to be so close to these powerful, gentle creatures in their natural habitat.   When our hour was up, we quietly retreated, hearts full, minds spinning from the sheer wonder of what we’d just witnessed. The hike back felt easier, buoyed by excitement and gratitude, as our guide shared more stories about gorilla conservation and local communities. Oh Uganda, thank you for this unforgettable experience. Back at the lodge by early afternoon, there was still a lot of time for exploring.  I joined a Batwa guide on a cultural trail tour where I got to hear stories of the culture and learn how they use some of the local plants as medicines and how they hunt for food and gather honey. The walk brought us through an ancient lava tube where we were treated to a performance of local music and dance by women of the community.     I also learned about the efforts to keep poachers away from pangolins.  We briefly spotted one of these unusual creatures on the trek. They sort of reminded me of a sloth or opossum or anteater covered in overlapping scales with a long scaly tail.  They eat ants and bugs, and when threatened they can curl up into a tight ball.  Sadly, they are the most trafficked mammals in the world, mostly as a delicacy food in parts of Asia, or for medicinal properties (with no proven clinical evidence of any healing claims).     Afterwards I wandered through the local market, tasted some produce, chatted with people and bought some local goodies to take home.  If you’re curious, the woven baskets and tote bags tuck in easily around clothing in your suitcase or backpack—I can say this from personal experience. And everyone can use a colorful fabric eyeglass case!  At least I hope so, as my friends are all getting them for the holidays this year. A bit more on what to expect on a gorilla trek:  Gorillas rarely interact physically with humans during a trek, since the guides carefully maintain a safe and respectful distance. However, sometimes—very rarely—a gorilla might approach out of gentle curiosity, particularly younger gorillas who haven’t fully grasped human boundaries.   If this happens, you’re advised to remain calm, stay very still, and quietly follow your guide’s instructions. Those lucky few who’ve had such an encounter describe it as deeply moving and even humbling, like briefly crossing a boundary between two worlds.   Travelers who’ve felt gorilla fur often describe it as surprisingly coarse and dense—nothing like petting a soft domestic animal. Their coats are thick and wiry, adapted to the cool, misty mountain air. Beneath the coarse outer layer is a softer, warm undercoat, which helps insulate them from the damp climate.   But it’s their gentle touch and curious, intelligent eyes

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Chimpanzee crossing

Ultimate Guide to Chimpanzee Trekking & Wildlife Encounters in Uganda’s Kibale Forest

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Chimpanzee Trekking Adventure: Experiencing Uganda’s Wildlife in Kibale Forest & Bigodi Sanctuary How a solo traveler meets the “locals” on a chimpanzee trek in Kibale Forest and a visit to the Bigodi Wetlands My alarm went off at 5:30 a.m.—early, yes, but Uganda’s mornings feel magical enough to make it worth it. After quickly dressing in layers (the forest mornings are surprisingly chilly), I enjoyed a simple but hearty breakfast at Kibale Forest Camp—fresh pineapple and bananas, warm toast with local honey, eggs scrambled with veggies, and steaming-hot Ugandan coffee (the elixir of life!). Honestly, I needed every bite, knowing I’d be trekking through dense forest in just an hour.   By 7:00, I met my guide at the Kibale Forest National Park visitor center, where we got a quick briefing on how to respectfully observe the chimpanzees. With a group of about six others, we set off into the forest, our eyes scanning the thick greenery above and around us.   The first surprise? Just how alive the forest was—birds singing, insects humming, and distant primate calls echoing through the canopy. About 45 minutes into the trek, our guide pointed upwards, whispering urgently. There, just above, was our first chimpanzee, casually grooming himself as though he hadn’t noticed a small crowd gathering below. Over the next two hours, we spotted several more—playing, grooming each other, and calling out with startlingly loud cries that reverberated through the trees. It felt surreal watching creatures so closely related to us going about their daily lives completely unaffected by our presence. Chimpanzees weren’t the only stars. The forest showed us glimpses of other primates like red colobus and black-and-white colobus monkeys gracefully leaping from branch to branch. We saw dazzling butterflies, vividly colored birds (including the striking Great Blue Turaco), and an impressive variety of orchids and plants I’d never even heard of. The entire trek lasted nearly three and a half hours but felt shorter because there was always something fascinating to see.   After returning to the visitor center, I hopped onto a motorcycle taxi—a boda boda—which whisked me down the bumpy dirt road to the Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, just fifteen minutes away. We bounced along dirt paths past tiny villages, smiling children waving at every turn. My afternoon walk through Bigodi was unexpectedly peaceful after the thrill of chimpanzee tracking. Led by a knowledgeable local guide from the community initiative, we strolled along raised wooden boardwalks and dirt trails winding through papyrus-filled marshes and tall grasses. Bigodi is a bird-lover’s paradise—I spotted shimmering kingfishers, jewel-toned sunbirds, and even glimpsed a shy papyrus gonolek darting through the reeds. Another surprise: how abundant monkeys were here too, especially the playful gray-cheeked mangabeys and vervet monkeys casually swinging by us without concern.   I spent about two relaxing hours wandering this sanctuary, enjoying how the community has successfully preserved the habitat while supporting local livelihoods. It felt good to be part of sustainable tourism.   Back at Kibale Forest Camp by about 4:00 p.m., I rinsed away the day’s adventure with a warm shower and spent some quiet time on my veranda, journaling and sipping tea while soaking in the sounds of the forest. Dinner at the camp was simple yet delicious—a warming pumpkin soup, followed by grilled chicken, roasted potatoes, fresh sautéed veggies, and perfectly ripe avocado salad. I chatted easily with fellow travelers at the communal table, all sharing stories from our day’s explorations. By the time dessert—sweet slices of fresh mango and pineapple—was served, night had fallen, and the sounds of the forest once again filled the air.   Heading to bed early, tired but content, I remember thinking this was exactly the kind of travel day that makes you feel fully alive, deeply connected to nature, and grateful for every minute spent out exploring the world.   Read more about my 10-day adventure in Uganda HERE.

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trek boots Uganda

Pearl of Africa: 10-days unveiling the wonders of Uganda

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Uganda: The Pearl of AfricaA 10-day realistic itinerary filled with culture, trekking and wildlife Uganda flew under my radar for a long time, and a visit is definitely worth adding to your bucket list. Winston Churchill gave Uganda the moniker of the “Pearl of Africa” owing to its vast biodiversity, dramatic landscapes, and remarkable cultural diversity. It is one of the few places in the world where you can trek to see endangered mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Beyond gorillas, Uganda is home to a rich array of wildlife, including chimpanzees, lions, elephants, giraffes, hippos, and a vast variety of bird species. National parks like Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth offer incredible safari opportunities. Beyond the wildlife, come prepared for some beautiful scenery. From the lush rainforests of Bwindi to the vast plains of the savanna and the majestic Murchison Falls, Uganda’s landscapes are stunning.  Enjoy some of the landscapes by exploring some of the lovely lake areas, hiking in the Rwenzori Mountains or even white-water rafting the Nile. Unlike some other East African destinations, Uganda is less crowded, which for me makes for a more authentic and intimate travel experience.  There is also a limited language barrier.  English is the official language and is widely spoken.    Of course, what always makes or breaks a trip are the people. Ugandans are known for their warm hospitality and rich cultural heritage. Don’t miss a chance to enjoy a local music or dance performance, and leave space in your bag for some local craft souvenirs. There are a million things to do and see in Uganda!   While my 10 days were incredible, if I could add a week and slow things down a little or add a few more places (or both!), I would.  For instance, I cut the area of Jinga from my itinerary at the last moment as its placement was hard to fit in.  Jinga is the “adventure capital” of Uganda, and while I was looking forward to a bit of whitewater rafting down the Nile there, it will need to wait for my next trip.  A few days of unscheduled rest and rejuvenate time would have been a nice add to the itinerary too as there is a lot of activity in each day.   I’ll jump into my itinerary next and give you some more tips and considerations at the end to plan an adventure of your own to this “Pearl of Africa.”! 10-days in Uganda as a solo traveler Day 1: Arrival in Entebbe & Kampala Exploration: Arrive at Entebbe International Airport (EBB). This is a newly designed airport that moves efficiently.  Taxis and car rentals are conveniently located just outside. Transfer to your hotel in Kampala down a beautifully paved road flanked by plantain trees—it’s about a 40-minute-or-so drive (this may have been the smoothest drive I took anywhere in the country).  You’ll know you’re close to Kampala when the traffic starts piling up.  The capital is a conventional city with high-rise buildings and bustling streets, yet not as crowded (or war torn) as some of the other capital cities in Africa.   This is the political, educational and cultural center of the country, and there is much here to explore. Depending on your arrival time, go explore Kampala’s cultural sites.  My flight arrived early, so there was plenty of the day to  see the Kasubi Tombs, Kabaka’s Palace, Gadhafi mosque, and the Uganda Museum. Walking around is generally safe, even for solo females, although you will witness some extreme shifts in socioeconomic situations in various areas of the city. If you’re feeling adventurous after you drop off your luggage, grab a boda-boda, which is a motorcycle “taxi” (meaning you will be sitting on the back of someone’s motorcycle), and negotiate a rate for a 1- or 2-hour drive through the city.  The drivers are masterful at weaving in and out of traffic, and your “tour” will be unlike anything you could plan for with insider tips galore. NOTE: If you are not used to riding on a motorcycle, or if you have a heart condition, this may not be the best mode of transport for you.   There isn’t much regulation of the boda-bodas or their drivers, so if the driver feels a little too wild in their driving style, ask them to slow down.  And if that doesn’t work, hop off (after paying them, of course).  Sometimes I wonder if they push the boundaries of safety to see how much the foreigners can handle!   Overnight in Kampala. While you will find some chain hotels such as Hilton and Best Western, smaller locally-owned hotels are a lovely way to experience a more unique local experience. They are also much, much less expensive. Chain hotels will cost $75-150 per night, whereas local hotels are around $10-50. Emma’s Guest house, not far from Kabaka’s Palace, was a whopping $6 for a single room, and was clean, bright, and delightful (and down the road from a very tasty bakery). Day 2: Kampala to Murchison Falls National Park (Internal Flight): Early morning transfer to Entebbe Airport. TIP: leave plenty of time to get to the airport and then to your flight.  Traffic can be backed up—especially during rush hours. Internal flight to Chobe airstrip, near Murchison Falls National Park. (You can also fly into Pakuba) The falls roar through the canyon and can be heard even before you see them.  Truly an incredible sight.  Easy to get to a viewing area just off the road.   You can enjoy an afternoon game drive, a boat tour or relax at your lodge.  We arrived a bit too late at the lodge due to a flight delay for any additional tours that day, but the lodge was gracious and accommodating and arranged a visit to a small village and a guide to lead us on some birdwatching, which was just the speed I needed after the jet lag started hitting me.

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solo in the serengeti. Elephants

Safari in the Serengeti: Tips for a Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience

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A solo woman’s Serengeti safari, from dusty boots to zebra winks Wildlife encounters, practical tips, and insights for women traveling alone. As my tiny bush plane bounced along the dirt runway in the heart of Tanzania, I realized my solo safari adventure in the Serengeti had officially begun. The first greeting wasn’t from humans, but rather an amused-looking zebra casually watching our landing as if critiquing the pilot’s skills. I couldn’t help but smile—clearly, I was entering their world now. The Serengeti has always been a name shrouded in mystique and grandeur, conjuring visions of golden savannas, sweeping landscapes dotted with acacia trees, and wildlife everywhere. Yet, stepping onto the dusty earth for the first time, nothing prepared me for the breathtaking reality: endless horizons, dramatic skies, and a palpable sense of wild wonder that instantly set my soul aflame.   Before we go further into my adventure, here are a few fun facts about Serengeti National Park: The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spanning approximately 30,000 square kilometers, the Serengeti is not your typical park with marked trails and designated viewing spots. It’s a vast, open expanse, offering a raw and authentic wildlife experience. The meaning of Serengeti is derived from the Maasai language and means “endless plains.”  The Masai tribe’s people stayed in harmony with the wildlife and herded cattle here for thousands of years.  Serengeti is the oldest and most unique ecosystem on the planet. This Tanzania park has one of the largest dense populations of wildlife in the world.  It is the best place to watch the lions in their natural habitat, and herds of giraffes and elephants are seen in the Northern Serengeti’s open woodlands. The area is famous for its annual wildlife spectacle called Wildebeest Migration which has been tracked since the 1960s. Serengeti has stunning biodiversity and a significant ecosystem. Seronera River Valley is a must-visit destination in Serengeti Park. Here you can find the best wildlife and bird species. Disney’s Lion King Movie is inspired by Serengeti Park’s southern plains.    Let the Adventure Begin!: I woke early on my first morning—seriously early, as in 5 AM early. Safari schedules run by wildlife clocks, and animals are early risers. With groggy eyes and an oversized sun hat, I climbed into an open-air jeep, notebook, water bottle and phone/camera in hand, wondering whether coffee was strong enough to prepare me for the next few hours (and if a “bush bathroom” would be needed during the drive to liberate it from my system). Yes and yes.   Ah, but the coffee…it was delicious and hit the early morning spot perfectly! Then came sunrise. The horizon began to blush, gently shifting into shades of orange and pink that seemed borrowed straight from a painter’s palette. I had barely managed to snap a blurry photo when the landscape suddenly burst into life. Wildebeests shuffled across the plains, giraffes elegantly reached for high branches, and a family of elephants appeared in silhouette against the brilliant sky. I felt like I had wandered onto a movie set, except this was far more magical—and dustier—than Hollywood ever gets. One guide, Nuru, (a somewhat rare female guide) had a fantastic talent for storytelling, often weaving tales into our game drive. While observing a pride of lions lounging lazily in the morning sun, she casually whispered, “Did you know lions can sleep up to 20 hours a day? That’s the level of leisure I aspire to.” Laughing together, I felt completely at ease, any initial nerves about being surrounded by some of the worlds most deadly animals now forgotten. Nuru then turned with a wink, adding, “Of course, that leaves plenty of time for hunting—so no napping near the lions, please.” Preparation for my Serengeti adventure was meticulous yet rewarding. Packing light, my wardrobe of muted tones (think khakis, greens, and tans) was essential to blend in with the surroundings and avoid irritating the wildlife (or the guides!). My boots, sturdy but well-broken-in, quickly became my best friends in the brush—second only to my trusty hat, which not only shielded me from the sun but hid my increasingly dusty hair. Sunscreen and mosquito repellent were lifesavers, and my small travel journal rapidly filled with scribbled observations and sketches of amusing encounters. And amusing encounters there were plenty. One afternoon, I returned from lunch to find an enthusiastic vervet monkey rifling through my backpack, boldly inspecting my snacks. His critique of my energy bar—apparently unsatisfactory—was evident by the disdainful toss he gave it into the bushes. I had to agree with his assessment; frankly, Tanzanian cuisine, from fragrant curries and grilled meats to fresh mangoes, was far superior.  As a side note, I spoke with lots of travelers at the airport (as I love to learn insights from fellow travelers wherever I go!) and it seems that no matter what lodge or camp they stayed at during their trip, they unanimously loved the food they were served.  Evenings were a different sort of magic, quieter yet equally spellbinding. Gathered around crackling campfires, under skies filled with so many stars they seemed impossibly infinite, fellow travelers and guides exchanged stories from the day, indulged in some local wine, played cards, or sat outside by the fire.  Solo travel had introduced me to remarkable new friends from all corners of the globe. Together, we marveled at the Serengeti’s daily drama, comparing notes about animal sightings and laughing at shared misadventures, like the elephant that stubbornly blocked our jeep for 20 minutes as if collecting an imaginary toll.  It was incredible to see him so close, and so at ease, wrapping his trunk around bits of grass and pulling his snack into his tiny (by comparison) mouth. One memorable day, we ventured into the Ngorongoro Crater—a UNESCO World Heritage Site with wildlife so dense I found myself whispering instinctively, fearful of interrupting this natural sanctuary. A scene unfolded that remains etched in my memory: two young lion cubs playfully tussled, their mother dozing nearby, unbothered.

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safari packing--a view from the Kruger lodge

African Safari: Expert Packing Tips & Things To Know Before You Go

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African Safari Packing Tips and Things To Know Before You Go Few experiences compare to the thrill of a safari. Breathtaking sunrises light up the savanna, unforgettable wildlife encounters each day, and landscapes bathed in amber hues—because sun and dust make a beautiful combination! Did I mention the dust?  Yes, the dust is everywhere—it gives your photos a gorgeous golden filter but also finds its way into your hair, shoes, and gear.  You’ll find it in your stuff months after you’ve returned home. But I digress…back to the fun stuff… Beyond the incredible animals, safaris immerse you in local culture and a little folklore too. One guide, Mosa, shared how his grandmother could predict rainfall by observing birds. Apparently, when oxpeckers go into hiding, rain is coming soon.  Another casually mentioned once unknowingly strolling past a sleeping lion—luckily, it cracked open its eyes, blinked a few times, flicked off some flies with its tail, and then returned to its nap!  I filed that story in the “don’t try this at home” (or when in Africa) section of my brain as one of those investment opportunity radio ads started playing in my brain…”past performance is not an indicator of future activity”.  We were also warned not to leave our boots outside of our tents (or anything else for that matter) as hyenas with questionable taste in décor seem to like lining their dens with these souvenirs, and it may be a little difficult to get them back. These moments of storytelling and laughter create bonds among fellow travelers, offering a meaningful connection to the animals, the land and its people. Dreaming of tracking elusive leopards in South Africa’s Kruger Park, witnessing the Great Migration in Tanzania’s Serengeti or Kenya’s Maasai Mara, or watching elephants at sunset in Kenya’s Amboseli? Take this as your sign—it’s time for a transformative adventure.       Why an African Safari Is Perfect for a Solo Female Traveler Empowering IndependenceAn African safari can sound intimidating, but with expert guides, established routes, and comfortable accommodations—all of which are part of the package at most lodges and camps—it’s a safe and empowering journey for solo women travelers. Unforgettable Wildlife EncountersNothing compares to the thrill of spotting wildlife up close. You’ll cherish moments like seeing elephants gracefully cross your path, a mix of species meeting to get water, or an elusive leopard lounging on a tree branch. Rich Cultural ExperiencesCamps are social hubs where tasty local food is served, drinks come out at night, and guides share captivating stories. You’ll learn about their childhood, traditions, and deep connection to the land. Time for ReflectionAfter exciting days, enjoy quiet evenings under starlit skies. Journaling, playing cards with other travelers, or simply gazing upward becomes a deeply personal and reflective experience. Kruger National Park: Perfect for Your First SafariKruger is ideal for first-timers—accessible, diverse, and home to the “Big Five.” Enjoy guided tours or self-drive adventures, excellent wildlife viewing, and comfortable lodging. From here, you can confidently explore other remarkable destinations in Africa.     What to Pack for Your Safari Earth-Toned Clothing Opt for colors that blend into surroundings and mask dust like khaki, olive green, taupe, and beige. Avoid white (anything white will be dirt-colored in milliseconds—trust me on this), black (attracts mosquitoes and traps heat), and bright colors or patterns as they can disturb wildlife.  Do not wear camouflage. This is considered for military useonly and not appreciated by the locals.  Versatile Clothing Layers Lightweight, moisture-wicking tees or tanks for daytime heat. I personally LOVE lightweight merino wool tank tops and T-shirts for comfort and easy cleaning. Long-sleeve shirts for sun protection—merino wool or cotton tunics are excellent options. Cargo pants with secure pockets, or shorts for hotter climates. A note on secure pockets—the roads are very bumpy and small items such as lip balm, coins, hair clips, keys, film canisters (yes, one of my recent co-travelers had some!), etc., easily maneuver their way out of your pockets while your 4×4 is in motion.  Secure small items in zippered pockets or expect to chase them around the floor of the 4×4 at the end of the day. Skip denim—it’s heavy, hot, and incredibly slow to dry.   Sturdy Footwear Waterproof sneakers or hiking shoes for protection and comfort on game drives and walking safaris.  Closed toe is a must.  Don’t forget to shake them out before you put them on once you unpack–scorpions and other critters like to crawl into warm, dark places.  Sandals or flip-flops for relaxing at camp or lodge. There is no need to pack any “fancier” shoes.  Even in cities like Cape Town or Johannesburg, simple flats or sandals are about as dressy as you’ll need for even the nicest restaurants. Sun Protection Essentials Packable hat for face, neck and scalp coverage. Scarf or bandana to manage dust, sun, and hair tangles. Sunglasses Comfortable Layers Lightweight fleece or jacket for cool mornings. Ensure it is a “quiet” material.  You don’t want crinkling sounds to scare off the animals. Breathable rain jacket for unpredictable weather. Underrated Essentials Reliable sports bra to handle bumpy safari rides.  Also anti-nausea meds or wristbands if you’re prone to motion sickness.  A secure crossbody bag. Baby wipes, biodegradable tissues, and a sealable bag for bush bathrooms. Swimsuit for lodges with pools. Leave flashy or branded items at home.  Tech Gear Portable battery packs, adapters, and extra charging cables.  Your lodge may have few plugs and limited electric overall, so be prepared with backup power banks for the duration of your trip—and for all the photos you’ll want to take. Headlamp or flashlight for nighttime navigation. Comfort Extras Hand sanitizer and wet wipes. Mosquito repellent. Sunscreen and aloe vera gel. Small travel fan for non-air-conditioned rooms. Emergency toilet tissue. If you normally wear contact lenses, you may want to bring your glasses & sunglasses to use when out on safari.  It gets very dusty and your eyes may feel dry and gritty, which can get particularly uncomfortable with contact lenses. 

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