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Christmas cookies in Vienna

Vienna’s Christmas Markets

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Vienna Christmas markets In mid-November, Vienna becomes a holiday snow globe filled with small markets all over the city where you can warn yourself with Glühwein (mulled wine), pretzels, langos (a bread topped with melted cheese and garlic), and crepes while shopping for holiday gifts from local craftspeople and food vendors.  Many of the markets are in beautifully decorated squares with historic buildings as their backdrop—perfect for those holiday photos. The holiday season kicks off in mid-November and closes in late December.  Start/end dates and times vary by market, but they are typically open from about 10AM-10PM on most days. For the lightest crowds, go to midday; the markets get a bit more crowded as the sun goes down. Each market has its unique feel and offerings, so we had quite the adventure going from one to the next over a few days. Each market typically also sells a commemorative mug for the year so you can pick up one from your favorite market or all of them, for a unique and useful souvenir.  As you wander the city from market to market, you’ll notice that just walking the streets of Vienna is magical during this time of year with holiday lights in abundance. The largest of the markets is the Christkindlmarkt (Viennese Dream Market) on Rathausplatz, yet I also love to head to the holiday markets at Stephensplatz, Maria Theresien Square, Schönbrunn Palace, and the Belvedere Palace for their spectacular settings.  I’ve added a few more markets with a twist to end of this list—and even then it is not inclusive of all the Christmas market areas in Vienna.  There are many smaller markets throughout the city. Let’s dive in to Vienna’s Holiday market wonderland: Christkindlmarkt On Rathausplatz next to Vienna’s City Hall is the largest of all the holiday markets in Vienna—the “Vienna Dream” or “Christkindlmarkt” is huge—but don’t worry, they put out an online map each year so you know how to find everything. The market comes with fairground rides like a Ferris wheel and two merry-go-rounds to keep the kids entertained and a romantic touch as well, with the “Herzlbaum,” a tree adorned with red heart lights (the scene of a million Instagram shots).  Or rent some skates and follow the ice trail through the trees.  When you return from that adventure, grab a cup of hot mulled wine or creamy hot chocolate, and start your stroll up and down all of the vendor stalls.  Support your local artists by bringing home some one-of-a-kind gifts.  The booths are filled with all sorts of unique items—including some delicious gingerbread, decorated ornaments, and functional pottery and woodwork.  If you need a break from shopping, take a ride on the Ferris wheel (yes, you can bring your mulled wine onboard), or admire the neo-gothic architecture of the City Hall building.  The entire scene is quite magical. Stephensplatz market, in the square next to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, is a beautiful way to start your market experience.  The cathedral, lit in colors for the season, and all of the decorated stalls selling gifts, ornaments, jewelry, ceramics, and of course great food and drink options, make the perfect Christmas card environment—especially at night when it is all illuminated. Maria Theresien Square Market: with more gorgeous buildings as the backdrop, this time the Kunsthistoriches and Naturhistorisches museums, the Museum of Art History, and Museum of Natural History respectively, this is another picture-perfect setting.  Don’t get so wrapped up in the holiday magic that you miss visiting the museums.  In the art museum, the Picture Gallery boasts works by European masters such as Raphael, Vermeer, Velázquez, Rembrandt, and perhaps most famously, Bruegel’s collection, including the iconic “Tower of Babel.” But the museum’s wonders don’t stop at paintings; it also houses the Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection, the Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities, and the Coin Cabinet, among others.  You could spend hours here. On the other side of the square, the Natural History Museum houses a dinosaur hall with life-size models and skeletons, a mineral collection, various zoological exhibits, including a bird hall, and a state-of-the-art digital planetarium.  Among its treasures, the museum is also home to the Venus of Willendorf, a small but iconic Paleolithic figurine dating back around 25,000 years. Schönbrunn Palace:Originally a hunting lodge for Emperor Leopold I, this baroque palace was transformed into an opulent summer residence for the Habsburg monarchs by his successor, Emperor Charles VI.  It was here that the six-year-old Mozart played for Empress Maria Theresa, and where Napoleon Bonaparte held meetings during his occupation of Vienna. The palace and its gardens are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for their importance in demonstrating the power and taste of the Habsburg dynasty. Schönbrunn’s gardens are a masterpiece of Baroque landscape design; while you’re here, head up to The Gloriette, a grand neoclassical arcade atop the hill overlooking the palace, which offers breathtaking views of Vienna. The Christmas Market takes place in front of the palace and is one of the largest markets in Vienna.  features all the crafts, gifts, and refreshments that are famous in these markets. Belvedere Palace Market sits in front of the beautiful baroque Belevedere Palace. The palace complex itself is divided into the Upper and Lower Belvedere, with magnificent gardens stretching between them. It houses an invaluable collection of Austrian art, including the world’s largest collection of Gustav Klimt paintings. His art style is characterized by the use of bold patterns, intricate detail, and the frequent use of gold leaf, which adds a luminous quality to his work, making it instantly recognizable. Set against the palace’s dramatic Baroque backdrop, the market is a vision of twinkling lights, artisanal stalls, and an aromatic bouquet of mulled wine and seasonal treats.  It’s a fairly small market compared to some others in Viena with more food/drink vendors than crafts, but definitely worth a walk through if you’re in the area.   Smaller markets with a twist Two markets add a unique twist—one with a

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Gorilla in Bwindi impenetrable forest, Uganda

Why Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Should Top Your Bucket List

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Mountain Gorillas: An Unforgettable Day in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda Why Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Should Top Your Bucket List The day began before dawn—fortunately, with coffee, as I pulled on sturdy hiking boots and layers of clothing to tackle the cool mountain air. Breakfast was hearty yet quick: eggs, toast with jam, fresh fruit, and more strong Ugandan coffee. At 7:00 a.m., I arrived at the park headquarters in Buhoma, ready to meet the guides and fellow trekkers.   Our guide gave a detailed briefing, emphasizing the rules: keep a respectful distance, remain quiet, and follow the trackers’ instructions. Soon after, our small group—just six of us, accompanied by trackers—set off into the dense, mist-covered slopes of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (the name is dramatic, but accurate!)   We were warned to expect challenging terrain, and it definitely was—steep, uneven (and unmarked) trails cut through thick vegetation. It can be VERY strenuous – your hike may be just a couple of hours but it can also be for a full day of up to 8 hours or more of hiking in hot, high-altitude conditions depending on sightings – a trip like this is great inspiration for a consistent exercise plan as a bit of training.                                                                                                                                                                                                                Gorilla tracking timings and conditions vary tremendously as the gorillas move continuously through the rain forest.  It is good to be prepared and remember the weather can change with very little warning.  The forest was mesmerizing, alive with birdsong, (or the screech of a monkeys) and filled with brilliant butterflies drifting through the shafts of sunlight piercing the canopy.  Catching my breath after some of the steep climbs was the perfect excuse to look around and enjoy the rest of the life among the trees.   We trekked for about three hours, sometimes pushing through tangled vines, at other times quietly crossing streams or carefully descending slippery hillsides. Then came the moment I’ll never forget: our trackers halted suddenly, speaking softly into their radios, signaling they’d found a gorilla family. Mountain gorillas are wild animals and, as such, sightings cannot be guaranteed, yet our guide said his viewing success rates are over 90%. Once sighted, visitors are allowed an hour with the gorillas.   My heart raced as we crept closer, and there they were—just a few feet away—a family of mountain gorillas, relaxed, gentle, and astonishingly human-like. A massive male, calm and majestic, observed us with mild curiosity while watching over the family. Younger gorillas wrestled and played nearby, tumbling over each other like joyful kids. One female cradled a tiny baby close to her chest, glancing our way briefly before returning to grooming her infant. A few of the younger ones ran up and down the hill where we were all perched like statues, brushing past and climbing over us as if we didn’t exist. It was wild.  I wanted to reach out and pet them, but we had all been sternly trained not to. I was surprised by how peaceful it felt to simply sit and observe them. We spent exactly one hour—a carefully timed privilege—watching their interactions, snapping photos, and savoring each extraordinary moment. It was profoundly moving and humbling to be so close to these powerful, gentle creatures in their natural habitat.   When our hour was up, we quietly retreated, hearts full, minds spinning from the sheer wonder of what we’d just witnessed. The hike back felt easier, buoyed by excitement and gratitude, as our guide shared more stories about gorilla conservation and local communities. Oh Uganda, thank you for this unforgettable experience. Back at the lodge by early afternoon, there was still a lot of time for exploring.  I joined a Batwa guide on a cultural trail tour where I got to hear stories of the culture and learn how they use some of the local plants as medicines and how they hunt for food and gather honey. The walk brought us through an ancient lava tube where we were treated to a performance of local music and dance by women of the community.     I also learned about the efforts to keep poachers away from pangolins.  We briefly spotted one of these unusual creatures on the trek. They sort of reminded me of a sloth or opossum or anteater covered in overlapping scales with a long scaly tail.  They eat ants and bugs, and when threatened they can curl up into a tight ball.  Sadly, they are the most trafficked mammals in the world, mostly as a delicacy food in parts of Asia, or for medicinal properties (with no proven clinical evidence of any healing claims).     Afterwards I wandered through the local market, tasted some produce, chatted with people and bought some local goodies to take home.  If you’re curious, the woven baskets and tote bags tuck in easily around clothing in your suitcase or backpack—I can say this from personal experience. And everyone can use a colorful fabric eyeglass case!  At least I hope so, as my friends are all getting them for the holidays this year. A bit more on what to expect on a gorilla trek:  Gorillas rarely interact physically with humans during a trek, since the guides carefully maintain a safe and respectful distance. However, sometimes—very rarely—a gorilla might approach out of gentle curiosity, particularly younger gorillas who haven’t fully grasped human boundaries.   If this happens, you’re advised to remain calm, stay very still, and quietly follow your guide’s instructions. Those lucky few who’ve had such an encounter describe it as deeply moving and even humbling, like briefly crossing a boundary between two worlds.   Travelers who’ve felt gorilla fur often describe it as surprisingly coarse and dense—nothing like petting a soft domestic animal. Their coats are thick and wiry, adapted to the cool, misty mountain air. Beneath the coarse outer layer is a softer, warm undercoat, which helps insulate them from the damp climate.   But it’s their gentle touch and curious, intelligent eyes

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Chimpanzee crossing

Ultimate Guide to Chimpanzee Trekking & Wildlife Encounters in Uganda’s Kibale Forest

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Chimpanzee Trekking Adventure: Experiencing Uganda’s Wildlife in Kibale Forest & Bigodi Sanctuary How a solo traveler meets the “locals” on a chimpanzee trek in Kibale Forest and a visit to the Bigodi Wetlands My alarm went off at 5:30 a.m.—early, yes, but Uganda’s mornings feel magical enough to make it worth it. After quickly dressing in layers (the forest mornings are surprisingly chilly), I enjoyed a simple but hearty breakfast at Kibale Forest Camp—fresh pineapple and bananas, warm toast with local honey, eggs scrambled with veggies, and steaming-hot Ugandan coffee (the elixir of life!). Honestly, I needed every bite, knowing I’d be trekking through dense forest in just an hour.   By 7:00, I met my guide at the Kibale Forest National Park visitor center, where we got a quick briefing on how to respectfully observe the chimpanzees. With a group of about six others, we set off into the forest, our eyes scanning the thick greenery above and around us.   The first surprise? Just how alive the forest was—birds singing, insects humming, and distant primate calls echoing through the canopy. About 45 minutes into the trek, our guide pointed upwards, whispering urgently. There, just above, was our first chimpanzee, casually grooming himself as though he hadn’t noticed a small crowd gathering below. Over the next two hours, we spotted several more—playing, grooming each other, and calling out with startlingly loud cries that reverberated through the trees. It felt surreal watching creatures so closely related to us going about their daily lives completely unaffected by our presence. Chimpanzees weren’t the only stars. The forest showed us glimpses of other primates like red colobus and black-and-white colobus monkeys gracefully leaping from branch to branch. We saw dazzling butterflies, vividly colored birds (including the striking Great Blue Turaco), and an impressive variety of orchids and plants I’d never even heard of. The entire trek lasted nearly three and a half hours but felt shorter because there was always something fascinating to see.   After returning to the visitor center, I hopped onto a motorcycle taxi—a boda boda—which whisked me down the bumpy dirt road to the Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, just fifteen minutes away. We bounced along dirt paths past tiny villages, smiling children waving at every turn. My afternoon walk through Bigodi was unexpectedly peaceful after the thrill of chimpanzee tracking. Led by a knowledgeable local guide from the community initiative, we strolled along raised wooden boardwalks and dirt trails winding through papyrus-filled marshes and tall grasses. Bigodi is a bird-lover’s paradise—I spotted shimmering kingfishers, jewel-toned sunbirds, and even glimpsed a shy papyrus gonolek darting through the reeds. Another surprise: how abundant monkeys were here too, especially the playful gray-cheeked mangabeys and vervet monkeys casually swinging by us without concern.   I spent about two relaxing hours wandering this sanctuary, enjoying how the community has successfully preserved the habitat while supporting local livelihoods. It felt good to be part of sustainable tourism.   Back at Kibale Forest Camp by about 4:00 p.m., I rinsed away the day’s adventure with a warm shower and spent some quiet time on my veranda, journaling and sipping tea while soaking in the sounds of the forest. Dinner at the camp was simple yet delicious—a warming pumpkin soup, followed by grilled chicken, roasted potatoes, fresh sautéed veggies, and perfectly ripe avocado salad. I chatted easily with fellow travelers at the communal table, all sharing stories from our day’s explorations. By the time dessert—sweet slices of fresh mango and pineapple—was served, night had fallen, and the sounds of the forest once again filled the air.   Heading to bed early, tired but content, I remember thinking this was exactly the kind of travel day that makes you feel fully alive, deeply connected to nature, and grateful for every minute spent out exploring the world.   Read more about my 10-day adventure in Uganda HERE.

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Coffee in Uganda plantation tour

Coffee time! Visiting a coffee plantation in Uganda

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Coffee time! Visiting a coffee plantation in Uganda You know how I love my coffee? Well this experience captured the soul of it, from the ground up. Visiting a coffee plantation near Queen Elizabeth National Park felt uniquely special because so much of Ugandan culture, traditions, and local life is wrapped up in it.  I joined a guided tour at one of the community-run farms near Kyambura Gorge, known locally as the “Valley of the Apes,” just outside the park’s boundaries. The guide warmly welcomed me into the plantation (like every other warm welcome I received in Uganda).  The plantation was set among lush hillsides with green coffee bushes sprawling in neat rows. Walking through the plantation was both peaceful and engaging, as he enthusiastically shared the farm’s history and explained the entire coffee journey—from planting and harvesting to roasting and brewing. As we moved through the tour, it became more of a hands-on experience. I actually got to pick ripe coffee cherries right from the branches. Later, I watched (and tried my hand at!) pulping and drying the beans in the traditional Ugandan way, using simple wooden equipment. It was messy, and I was terrible at it, but I laughed until my sides hurt.   The smell of freshly roasted beans filled the air as we gathered around the roasting pan, which the guide handled with practiced ease. Finally, sipping a steaming cup of fresh-brewed coffee at the end of the tour was richly satisfying!  We actually got to taste a few different kinds—all a little different.  All bold and delicious. What makes this coffee so good? Ugandan coffee, especially the arabica grown around the high-altitude regions near Queen Elizabeth, has an exceptionally smooth and mild flavor profile. The coffee from these plantations is particularly well-balanced, with subtle notes of chocolate, nuts, and hints of fruitiness. It’s less acidic than coffees from Ethiopia or Kenya, making it wonderfully gentle and easy to drink.   What makes this coffee even more special is how it’s grown. No chemicals, no shortcuts—just hard work, pride, and a whole lot of heart. It’s arabica, mostly, especially in these high-altitude regions. But across Uganda, they grow both arabica and robusta—arabica up in the mountains, robusta in the lowlands, each with its own personality and flavor profile.   Coffee Across Uganda Coffee isn’t only grown around Queen Elizabeth—it’s actually one of Uganda’s most important exports and is cultivated widely throughout the country. Mount Elgon, the Rwenzori Mountains, even around Bwindi and Lake Victoria—they say you can taste the landscape in the beans.  My palette isn’t that fine-tuned, but what I tasted, I liked.  And that was good enough for me.  Arabica coffee thrives at higher elevations, particularly in regions like Mount Elgon in the east, the Rwenzori Mountains (“Mountains of the Moon”) in the west, and around Bwindi and Queen Elizabeth. Robusta coffee, known for its strong body and robust taste, grows abundantly at lower altitudes, especially in central Uganda around Lake Victoria and the Kibale region. So if my luggage has picked up the scent of coffee, it may be from bringing a bit of this brown gold home with me—as many bags of it as I can carry 😊. To read more about my adventures in Uganda, here are a few more articles: 10-day adventure with full itinerary Chimpanzee trek in Kibale Forest Gorilla trek in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

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trek boots Uganda

Pearl of Africa: 10-days unveiling the wonders of Uganda

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Uganda: The Pearl of AfricaA 10-day realistic itinerary filled with culture, trekking and wildlife Uganda flew under my radar for a long time, and a visit is definitely worth adding to your bucket list. Winston Churchill gave Uganda the moniker of the “Pearl of Africa” owing to its vast biodiversity, dramatic landscapes, and remarkable cultural diversity. It is one of the few places in the world where you can trek to see endangered mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Beyond gorillas, Uganda is home to a rich array of wildlife, including chimpanzees, lions, elephants, giraffes, hippos, and a vast variety of bird species. National parks like Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth offer incredible safari opportunities. Beyond the wildlife, come prepared for some beautiful scenery. From the lush rainforests of Bwindi to the vast plains of the savanna and the majestic Murchison Falls, Uganda’s landscapes are stunning.  Enjoy some of the landscapes by exploring some of the lovely lake areas, hiking in the Rwenzori Mountains or even white-water rafting the Nile. Unlike some other East African destinations, Uganda is less crowded, which for me makes for a more authentic and intimate travel experience.  There is also a limited language barrier.  English is the official language and is widely spoken.    Of course, what always makes or breaks a trip are the people. Ugandans are known for their warm hospitality and rich cultural heritage. Don’t miss a chance to enjoy a local music or dance performance, and leave space in your bag for some local craft souvenirs. There are a million things to do and see in Uganda!   While my 10 days were incredible, if I could add a week and slow things down a little or add a few more places (or both!), I would.  For instance, I cut the area of Jinga from my itinerary at the last moment as its placement was hard to fit in.  Jinga is the “adventure capital” of Uganda, and while I was looking forward to a bit of whitewater rafting down the Nile there, it will need to wait for my next trip.  A few days of unscheduled rest and rejuvenate time would have been a nice add to the itinerary too as there is a lot of activity in each day.   I’ll jump into my itinerary next and give you some more tips and considerations at the end to plan an adventure of your own to this “Pearl of Africa.”! 10-days in Uganda as a solo traveler Day 1: Arrival in Entebbe & Kampala Exploration: Arrive at Entebbe International Airport (EBB). This is a newly designed airport that moves efficiently.  Taxis and car rentals are conveniently located just outside. Transfer to your hotel in Kampala down a beautifully paved road flanked by plantain trees—it’s about a 40-minute-or-so drive (this may have been the smoothest drive I took anywhere in the country).  You’ll know you’re close to Kampala when the traffic starts piling up.  The capital is a conventional city with high-rise buildings and bustling streets, yet not as crowded (or war torn) as some of the other capital cities in Africa.   This is the political, educational and cultural center of the country, and there is much here to explore. Depending on your arrival time, go explore Kampala’s cultural sites.  My flight arrived early, so there was plenty of the day to  see the Kasubi Tombs, Kabaka’s Palace, Gadhafi mosque, and the Uganda Museum. Walking around is generally safe, even for solo females, although you will witness some extreme shifts in socioeconomic situations in various areas of the city. If you’re feeling adventurous after you drop off your luggage, grab a boda-boda, which is a motorcycle “taxi” (meaning you will be sitting on the back of someone’s motorcycle), and negotiate a rate for a 1- or 2-hour drive through the city.  The drivers are masterful at weaving in and out of traffic, and your “tour” will be unlike anything you could plan for with insider tips galore. NOTE: If you are not used to riding on a motorcycle, or if you have a heart condition, this may not be the best mode of transport for you.   There isn’t much regulation of the boda-bodas or their drivers, so if the driver feels a little too wild in their driving style, ask them to slow down.  And if that doesn’t work, hop off (after paying them, of course).  Sometimes I wonder if they push the boundaries of safety to see how much the foreigners can handle!   Overnight in Kampala. While you will find some chain hotels such as Hilton and Best Western, smaller locally-owned hotels are a lovely way to experience a more unique local experience. They are also much, much less expensive. Chain hotels will cost $75-150 per night, whereas local hotels are around $10-50. Emma’s Guest house, not far from Kabaka’s Palace, was a whopping $6 for a single room, and was clean, bright, and delightful (and down the road from a very tasty bakery). Day 2: Kampala to Murchison Falls National Park (Internal Flight): Early morning transfer to Entebbe Airport. TIP: leave plenty of time to get to the airport and then to your flight.  Traffic can be backed up—especially during rush hours. Internal flight to Chobe airstrip, near Murchison Falls National Park. (You can also fly into Pakuba) The falls roar through the canyon and can be heard even before you see them.  Truly an incredible sight.  Easy to get to a viewing area just off the road.   You can enjoy an afternoon game drive, a boat tour or relax at your lodge.  We arrived a bit too late at the lodge due to a flight delay for any additional tours that day, but the lodge was gracious and accommodating and arranged a visit to a small village and a guide to lead us on some birdwatching, which was just the speed I needed after the jet lag started hitting me.

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Autumn in Asheville, NC–Three perfect days of food, art, fall color and fun.

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    DESTINATIONS Autumn in Asheville, NC Three perfect days of food, art, fall color and fun.   Autumn in Asheville is like stepping into a vibrant, living postcard. Let me take you along on a three-day exploration of this charming mountain city, sprinkled with architectural gems, rich history, and a buzzing cultural scene.  Post-Hurricane Helene Update: This article highlights the wonderful aspects of Asheville, NC, as they existed before Hurricane Helene. Due to recent flooding and storm damage, some businesses and activities may be temporarily or permanently unavailable. I encourage you to verify operating status with individual establishments and consider supporting the region’s recovery efforts. Please consult local tourism resources for the latest information.   Before we even get to the town, we must chat about the Blue Ridge Mountains surrounding it.  Asheville is renowned for its stunning fall foliage through these hills. The peak leaf color usually occurs from mid-October to early November, and the Blue Ridge Parkway offers some of the best vistas for leaf peepers.   Asheville’s location in Western North Carolina, a region abundant with farms, makes it a prime spot for fall harvest activities. Apple picking, corn mazes, and hayrides are popular weekend activities in the nearby orchards and farms.  Hendersonville is a great spot for farms with all the fall activities you could hope for.  They even host the North Carolina Apple Festival which fills up Main street with all sorts of food, vendors, music and fun.  This year (2024) the festival runs from August 30th-September 2nd (it is typically held over the Labor Day weekend) If you time your stay later in the season, downtown Asheville celebrates Oktoberfest. This festive event features local and traditional German beers, live music, and activities that embrace Bavarian culture in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  The 2024 event will take place on Saturday, October 5th from 2–6 PM at Pack Square Park.   If you’re not in the area for the Apple Fest or Oktoberfest, not to worry, there is still lots to see and do. If you’d like to get into the Halloween spirit, VIATOR offers some ghost tours in Asheville.  Small group tours stroll through the streets of downtown at night with an expert guide to tell you about the area’s haunted and “paranormally active” locations.  Entertaining and informative! You may never look at some of those buildings the same way again.     Let’s go spend 3 great Autumn days in Asheville! Day 1 Morning Walks and Downtown Delights   Our adventure starts at the Grove Arcade, an early 20th-century marvel that houses a fascinating collection of shops and eateries. I always make a beeline for the Battery Park Book Exchange, where browsing through books with a coffee in hand feels just right. It’s a cozy place that feels more like a cozy library on an old estate—dark wood bookcases piled high with books, and sofas and seating areas scattered around to curl up in—than a typical bookstore.  Standard white walls and pressboard bookshelves are replaced with rich red walls, granite counters, and ambient lighting and did I mention the “you-may-never-want-to-leave” armchairs? Come later in the day and you can treat yourself to some champagne and light bites as you flip through the books.  There are over 10,000 books here available to purchase over 2 floors.  For lunch, head to Farm Burger, where they take their locally sourced ingredients seriously. A juicy burger here feels just right—simple, delicious, and honest. They partner with local farms that are carefully vetted to ensure quality and fair labor practices, get ingredients delivered fresh, and they cook everything from scratch. Spend the afternoon wandering the downtown area, dipping into galleries and boutiques. The Asheville Art Museum is a must for its engaging American art exhibits. I particularly love the thrill of the hunt in antique and thrift shops.  With cavernous buildings like the Antique Tobacco Barn, antiquing has never been easier nor more fun. Dinner is at Cúrate. Cúrate means ‘cure yourself’ in Spanish, reflecting the belief held by chef Katie Button and her family that there are curative effects in sharing good food and wine with family and friends. This is a lively spot where the tapas—like the perfectly spicy patatas bravas—invite you to share and enjoy. For those who have visited Spain, the Cúrate menu will bring back memories of the country’s best jamón Ibérico, vermuterías, and lively tapas culture. In recognition of the restaurant’s all-Spanish wine list, Cúrate was listed as one of America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.  I’d recommend a reservation!.   Day 2 Biltmore Beauty and Antique Treasure Hunting Today is for the Biltmore Estate. Walking through America’s largest home, you really feel the scale of the Vanderbilt ambition and the beauty of the details—both in the craftsmanship of the rooms and the seasonal drama of the gardens. Just as it seems things are dying off in the fall, the gardens here come to life with colorful flowers and trees planted in English Garden style. The Estate landscapers go all out with their autumn display, featuring hundreds of intricately carved pumpkins, beautiful chrysanthemums, and harvest-themed decorations. It’s a spectacular sight. Before leaving the estate, plan a visit to the winery for a complimentary wine tasting, and take home some of their award-winning vintages. If you get to the Biltmore before January 2025, you’ll have the opportunity to see a special exhibit of master glass blower Chihuly’s artwork.  His works are placed around the grounds and within the intimate gallery setting of Amherst at Deerpark, about 3 miles from the Biltmore house. In the afternoon, let’s go hunt for treasures at Lexington Park Antiques. This place is perfect for finding something unique to take home, like a piece of vintage jewelry or a handcrafted ceramic. For dinner, Table is a cozy spot downtown where the menu changes with the seasons. Their local trout is always a good choice, fresh and cooked to perfection.  It’s a simple

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Exploring Asheville in Summer: A Guide to Adventure, Culture, and Relaxation

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Asheville, nestled in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, is a haven for nature lovers and cultural aficionados. This vibrant city promises an enchanting blend of adventure, culture, and relaxation, making it a perfect summer destination. Whether you’re soaring above the mountains in a hot air balloon at sunrise or cruising along the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, Asheville offers countless ways to experience its stunning landscapes and rich heritage. Post-Hurricane Helene Update: This article highlights the wonderful aspects of Asheville, NC, as they existed before Hurricane Helene. Due to recent flooding and storm damage, some businesses and activities may be temporarily or permanently unavailable. I encourage you to verify operating status with individual establishments and consider supporting the region’s recovery efforts. Please consult local tourism resources for the latest information. If you’re ready to have some fun in Asheville, here’s your comprehensive guide. Let’s start at the Blue Ridge Parkway. The Blue Ridge Parkway near Asheville offers a magnificent drive through the Appalachian Highlands, renowned for its stunning vistas and an array of accessible hiking trails suitable for various fitness levels. This scenic route stretches for 469 miles, connecting the Shenandoah National Park in Virginia to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. Several trails off the Blue Ridge Parkway are particularly noteworthy for their beauty and accessibility: Craggy Gardens Trail provides a relatively easy hike through a beautifully surreal, gnarled forest of rhododendron and blueberries, leading to an idyllic, grassy mountaintop. This spot is known for its breathtaking panoramic views. Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi, offers a paved trail to its summit, making it accessible and providing spectacular views across the mountain landscape. Linville Falls Trail leads to stunning views of powerful waterfalls and deep gorges, offering several vantage points that are accessible via well-maintained paths. Humpback Rocks is another popular destination, with a more challenging trail that rewards hikers with sweeping views of the surrounding valley. Driving the entire length of the Parkway can take several days, especially if you plan to enjoy various hikes and stops along the way. However, the sections nearest Asheville can be explored in shorter day trips. For a thorough experience, allowing a few hours for travel and exploration would enable you to soak in the natural beauty and enjoy several accessible hikes. For more detailed information about hikes and planning your visit along the Blue Ridge Parkway, you can check resources like the Blue Ridge Parkway official site and Asheville Trails. These sites offer extensive guides on trail details, including difficulty levels and exact locations for starting points. Beyond just hiking through the mountains, Asheville is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts with a variety of activities, including: Mountain Biking: Explore secluded backcountry trails for all skill levels. Fishing:  Try fly-fishing in the cool mountain streams or with the Asheville Fly Fishing Company. Kayaking, Tubing & Canoeing:  Paddle along the French Broad River or join guided tours with Asheville Adventure Company. Golfing:  Golf enthusiasts can enjoy a round at one of Asheville’s picturesque golf courses, offering both challenging play and spectacular mountain views.  There are 11 courses within a 15-mile radius of Asheville, 8 of which are public courses and 3 are private courses. Rock Climbing:  Experience climbing at local spots.  Get gear and advice from Black Dome Mountain Sports. Disc Golf: Play at the Richmond Hill Disc Golf Course with a view of the mountains. Horseback Riding: Take a scenic ride through trails that offer breathtaking views of the Asheville landscape.  Head to the Biltmore Estate Equestrian Center  or for rides through Pisgah National Forest, head out to the park to Saddle Up Trail Rides or Pisgah Forest Stables. Sunset Yoga on the Mountaintop Hike: About 2 hours before sunset, begin the 2-mile (roundtrip) hike up the mountain to the summit, for a stunning vista and yoga practice for all levels as the sky glows around you.  Mats are provided.  Sunset yoga is offered May-October (weather permitting). To book your Sunset Yoga on the Mountaintop Hike, contact Asheville Wellness Tours at (828) 407-0711 or email Info@AshevilleWellnessTours.com. It’s a unique way to practice self-care, connect with nature, and enjoy the magic of Asheville’s mountains. FUN FACT: Asheville was once called Morristown after Robert Morris, a politician during the American Revolution, and renamed “Asheville” in 1797 to honor North Carolina Governor Samuel Ashe. The change was part of the incorporation of the city, reflecting a common practice of the time to honor notable state figures in place names. Cultural Riches and Historical Wonders: Asheville boasts one of the most extensive collections of Art Deco buildings in the United States outside of Miami. After the 1920s, the city saw a construction boom, and many buildings from this period have been beautifully preserved. A walking tour of downtown will reveal the ornate details of buildings like the City Hall, the Asheville Flatiron Building, and the Grove Arcade. These tours often include insights into the history of Asheville’s development and its architectural heritage. FUN FACT: There are mysterious tunnels beneath the city streets, which have various legends associated with them.  There are no tours of any tunnels—the actual extent and purpose of these tunnels remain somewhat mysterious. If you’re intrigued, consider joining a local tour or exploring the historical records at the North Carolina Room in Pack Library to learn more about Asheville’s hidden past. If you love architecture, the Historic Montford neighborhood features a collection of Victorian, Queen Anne, and Arts and Crafts homes along tree-lined streets, making it a picturesque area reflective of Asheville’s diverse architectural history.  You can take a leisurely stroll through Montford or join a guided tour to learn about the history of the area and its notable former residents. The Biltmore Estate is undoubtedly Asheville’s most famous architectural marvel. Built by George Vanderbilt during the Gilded Age, it is the largest privately-owned home in the United States. The estate encompasses an impressive 8,000-acre compound and is renowned for its stunning French Renaissance architecture.

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Berlin museum island and bridge

3 Days in Berlin: A walk through architecture, history & change

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3 Days in Berlin: A walk through architecture, history & change Berlin represents the epitome of resilience and reinvention for me—particularly in its architecture. Rising from the ashes of a divided past, it now boasts a captivating blend of architectural styles that reflect its turbulent journey. From the grandeur of Prussian palaces to the stark beauty of Cold War relics and the audacious leaps of contemporary design, Berlin offers a unique architectural vision. I’ve found Berlin as a place that visually melds the past with the present in ways that few other cities can.  It’s a modern, cosmopolitan city where you can find anything you can dream of to eat (and its top notch!), many languages spoken (a lot of it English), and truly lovely people.   Come along as we spend three days discovering both well-known and lesser-known architectural wonders of Berlin. This guide is designed to immerse you in the city’s rich history and culture—as told through its buildings.  Wear your most comfortable walking shoes as we’ll be getting in our steps over the next few days.  Ready? Let’s go! Day 1: Berlin’s Historic Heart Morning: Start at the Brandenburg Gate(allow 1 hour) Our first morning begins at the iconic Brandenburg Gate. This neoclassical arch has witnessed revolutions, celebrations, and poignant moments in silence. It’s Berlin’s most recognizable landmark. Built in the late 18th century, this neoclassical triumphal arch has symbolized both division and unity. As you stand beneath its massive columns, you can almost hear the echoes of the boots marching through and the cheers that once filled Pariser Platz. From the center of the square you’ll get a better view of the Quadriga atop the gate—a chariot driven by Victoria, goddess of victory (who originally held an olive branch, representing peace) drawn by four horses.  After Napoleon’s defeat of Prussia, the sculpture was altered to represent victory.  Today, it is seen as a representation of German unity and peace. We’ll take our time here; enjoy a coffee from one of the nearby cafes and watch the city wake up. Did someone say coffee?  Head over to Café LebensArt on Unter den Linden, just a few steps from the Brandenburg Gate. It has a cozy atmosphere and a good selection of coffee and pastries.  Alternatively, inside the Adlon Hotel is the Adlon-to-go, a small coffee shop with a terrace overlooking the Brandenburg Gate. Walk through the Holocaust Memorial(allow 30-60 minutes, or as much time as you need) A short walk leads to the Holocaust Memorial, officially known as the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, which offers a moment of reflection and remembrance in the center of the city. This sprawling field of 2,711 concrete slabs that rise and fall in uneven waves, was designed by architect Peter Eisenman.   Each stelae’s varying height and the uneven ground convey a sense of disorientation and isolation, symbolizing the unimaginable chaos and suffering of the Holocaust. Beneath the memorial lies an underground information center, where personal stories give voice to the millions who suffered. Allow yourself time to reflect here—this is a space that requires it. Afternoon: The Reichstag’s Glass Dome(allow 1 hour. Tip: Book entry tickets in advance) After a contemplative morning, we’ll head to the Reichstag for an entirely different perspective. This historic parliament building, crowned by Norman Foster’s glass dome, symbolizes transparency and innovation. This is a stunning example of how buildings can be reborn.  As you walk up the spiral ramp inside the dome, a series of etchings and plaques explain the historical context, architectural elements and descriptions of the views as the cityscape opens up before you. And inside the dome, you can look down into the Bundestag (Parliament hall) and see democracy at work.  Not only is this space beautiful, but in the 21st century the Reichstag became a symbol of Germany’s commitment to renewable energy. The Reichstag’s iconic dome was designed to bathe the Bundestag chamber in natural light, and a massive solar array on its roof further increased the building’s energy independence. Biofuel generators provided for a significant amount of the Reichstag’s power needs, and in 2008 the Bundestag approved a plan to power the building with 100 percent renewable resources. Pre-book your tickets to skip the line! Lunch on Museum Island:Timing: 2-3 hours (choose 1-2 museums to avoid museum fatigue) Grab lunch near Museum Island. Once fueled, you’re ready to dive into one of Berlin’s greatest treasures: five world-renowned museums housed on a small island in the Spree River: Let’s start with lunch.  Here are a few of my favorites for lunch in the area. For sandwiches and burgers: Bistro Lebenswelten is a good German bar with good self-service food and drink options. Or CHIPPS a German café with innovative dishes (indoor and outdoor seating). Middle-Eastern: Terras Doner Kebap serves hearty Middle-Eastern food in a casual space.. The traditional German Café Am Petriplatz is a good choice for a heartier meal.  Continental and German meals in a lovely space—and some outdoor seating. Or, of course, you can try a currywurst at one of the street vendors (there’s even a currywurst museum if you decide you really love it and want to learn more).  After lunch, back to exploring… Museum Island As mentioned earlier, on Museum Island are five museums. Each museum houses a world-renowned collection of art and artifacts. The Bode Museum is home to a vast collection of German and European art, including sculptures, paintings, and textiles. The Pergamon Museum is home to the famous Pergamon Altar, as well as other ancient Greek and Roman artifacts. The Altes Museum is home to a collection of ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman art. The Neues Museum is home to the famous bust of Nefertiti, as well as other Egyptian antiquities. The National Gallery is home to a collection of German and European paintings from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this itinerary is focused on architecture, I recommend heading to the Pergamonmuseum and the Neues Museum, which showcase ancient artifacts and impressive architecture. Pergamonmuseum

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Wandering in Wellness Paris

Wandering with Wellness: Paris, France

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Paris, often celebrated for its art, history, and culinary excellence, also emerges as an unexpected haven for those seeking a few days dedicated to wellness. Places like the Luxembourg Gardens, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, and the Bois de Boulogne provide ample space for yoga, meditation, or a peaceful walk, allowing one to reconnect with nature and find inner peace amidst the bustling city life. The city’s culinary scene has evolved to include a plethora of options catering to health-conscious diners. From organic cafes like Wild & The Moon to vegetarian restaurants and markets offering locally-sourced, organic produce, Paris enables visitors to indulge in gourmet experiences that are both delicious and nourishing. But wellness isn’t solely about physical health; it’s also about enriching the mind and soul, and with its wealth of museums, galleries, and historical sites, Paris offers endless opportunities for intellectual and emotional enrichment.  For those who equate wellness with a bit of pampering and luxury, Paris excels with its array of high-end boutiques, salons, and perfumeries. Shopping in Le Marais, exploring the grand boulevards, or even enjoying a leisurely cruise on the Seine can be therapeutic and a wonderful way to practice self-love.  Take that up a notch with an indulgent spa day to fully pamper the body and uplift the spirit. Paris is a city best explored on foot, and walking is a great way to stay active, explore hidden gems, and reduce stress. The architecture, street scenes, and the very act of wandering through the city’s charming arrondissements can be a joyful and invigorating experience.  The Parisian lifestyle, with its emphasis on savoring the moment, whether through a leisurely meal, a quiet hour spent in a café, or simply taking the time to converse and connect, encourages mindfulness and a slower pace of life, essential components of wellness. In essence, Paris offers a unique blend of activities and experiences that cater to all aspects of wellness, making it an ideal backdrop for anyone looking to unwind, rejuvenate, and perhaps rediscover their zest for life. It’s a city that reminds us that wellness is not just about the absence of illness but about a deeper, more joyful engagement with life itself. Here’s a 3-day plan to help you explore the city with wellness in mind: Day 1: Morning: Start your day with a peaceful meditation and yoga session in the tranquil setting of the Tuileries Gardens. The harmony of nature provides a perfect backdrop for mindfulness. I loved OUTDOOR YOGA in Tuileries – Vinyasa with Jacqueline, organized by the Yoga Club Paris. Then head to Café de Flore, one of the oldest coffeehouses in Paris, located in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. It’s famed for its historical clientele (Hemingway and Sartre were regulars back in the day) but also makes fantastic coffee and pastries! Here you will find a quintessential Parisian breakfast experience. Savor a classic café au lait alongside a croissant with some great people-watching. Afternoon: Visit the Musée d’Orsay for an “art therapy session” of sorts, immersing yourself in the world-renowned collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces to soothe the soul and inspire deep reflection. Evening: Dine at Bistrot Paul Bert, a classic Parisian bistro in the 11th arrondissement that serves up traditional French cuisine with a modern twist. The steak frites here are legendary, and the wine list is impressively curated to complement your meal perfectly. Or for something a bit lighter, try Sense Eat, for exquisite vegetarian Italian cuisine in a cozy atmosphere, focusing on organic and seasonal ingredients. Day 2: Morning: Start early at Du Pain et des Idées. Nestled in the 10th arrondissement, this is not just a bakery but a pilgrimage site for those who cherish artisanal breads and pastries (when if Paris, do as the Parisians do!). The pain des amis and the escargot chocolat pistache are must-tries. Then burn off some of those calories with a leisurely walk or bike ride along the Seine. The early morning light and calmness of the city provide a peaceful start to the day. Or participate in a Tai Chi class at the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, one of Paris’s most beautiful parks, offering sweeping views and a tranquil space for morning exercise.  Classes are a bit ad-hoc but usually take place around 9AM daily.  After class, grab some refreshments at Rosa Bonheur, an adorable café with outdoor seating in the park. Afternoon: Treat yourself to a visit to the Hammam at the Grande Mosquée de Paris. This traditional Moroccan hammam offers a serene escape with steam rooms, massages, and tea.  Take the metro to Place Monge. The somewhat hidden Hammam entrance is behind the pastry counter in the mosque’s charming courtyard café. From there, you’ll be escorted to the hammam, a high room, lavishly decorated with mosaic tiles and carved woodwork, filtered sunlight streaming through stained glass and filigreed lanterns. Around the edges of the room, lay women reclined on beds covered with cushions, sipping mint tea from tiny glasses, nibbling on pastries, laughing, whispering and drifting in and out of sleep.  Proceed through the five marble-lined chambers from steam to water and back to steam, each one heating up to the extreme 60-degree temperature of the plunging pool room, followed by “gommage” (“erasing” or exfoliation) and massage with scented oils. By the end of it you will have been scrubbed and rubbed and coated with almond-scented oils–and your skin will feel like silk. But even better, you will have experienced just a small piece of Arabic culture in a female-centric atmosphere. OR, indulge in a facial at the Spa Le Bristol by La Prairie, known for its luxurious bespoke wellness treatments that promise relaxation and rejuvenation—each customized to the guest’.  Situated within Le Bristol Paris, one of the city’s most prestigious hotels, the spa benefits from an environment that exudes elegance and charm. Pair that with the La Prairie skin care products used exclusively at the spa and you know you will emerge glowing. Beyond the exceptional treatments, Spa Le Bristol by

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Aspen-mountains-in-summer

Summer Activities in Aspen, Colorado

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While Aspen, Colorado, is famous for its skiing, it truly shines in the summer with its stunning natural beauty and a diverse array of activities suitable for all ages. FUN FACT: Aspen was originally established as a silver mining camp during the Colorado Silver Boom in the late 19th century and named after the abundance of aspen trees in the area. Here are some personal experiences and recommended activities to help you make the most of your visit. Outdoor Adventures As an outdoor enthusiast, I found summer in Aspen to be a paradise. The Rio Grande Trail is a must for anyone who enjoys cycling—it offers beautiful, easy routes for a leisurely ride, but also challenging paths for more intense mountain biking. Paragliding off Aspen Mountain was an unforgettable way to see the Elk Mountains from above (and I have a bad habit of jumping off mountains, but I digress). If you’re seeking a thrill, the hot air ballooning and whitewater rafting on the Roaring Fork River are exhilarating experiences that I highly recommend. FUN FACT: Aspen was the third city in the United States to transition to 100% renewable energy in 2015. This initiative reflects the community’s commitment to sustainability and environmental conservation, aligning with its beautiful mountain setting and outdoor lifestyle. Cultural Immersion The cultural scene in Aspen blooms in the summer. I was particularly moved by the classical music performances at the Aspen Music Festival and School, a highlight from June through August that draws top-class musicians from around the world. Jazz Aspen Snowmass brings the town alive during the Labor Day Experience with vibrant performances. Another personal favorite is the Anderson Ranch Arts Center, where I spent a fascinating afternoon exploring art workshops and galleries. Relaxation and Leisure For those seeking relaxation, the ride up Aspen Mountain via the Silver Queen Gondola offers not only yoga and music once you reach the top, but also panoramic views that are simply breathtaking. On one quiet afternoon, I found solace at the John Denver Sanctuary—a perfect spot for meditation or a peaceful walk. The town itself is dotted with luxurious spas and quaint cafes, ideal for unwinding. Family Activities Aspen is incredibly family-friendly, with activities that can keep children entertained while educating them about the natural environment. The Aspen Center for Environmental Studies offers interactive nature walks​, while the Aspen Recreation Center provides indoor fun like ice-skating and swimming—perfect for cooling off in the middle of the day​​. Dining and Shopping Aspen’s dining scene matches the elegance of its landscapes. I indulged in a farm-to-table dinner at a high-end restaurant that offered a delicious meal and a feast for the senses with spectacular mountain views. The Aspen Saturday Market is a fun way to stock up on local produce and find locally-made crafts—I always make it a point to visit and pick up a few unique items.  There’s also the annual FOOD & WINE Classic in June, which attracts renowned chefs and wine experts for a grand tasting event, educational seminars, and demonstrations. For Solo Travelers Traveling solo can be an exhilarating and empowering experience, especially in a welcoming destination like Aspen. As a solo traveler, I found Aspen to be incredibly inviting. Engaging with local culture was easy at community events at the Aspen Art Museum and workshops at Anderson Ranch. I felt safe hiking the well-populated trails around Maroon Bells, and joining group tours for biking and hiking helped me connect with fellow travelers and locals. Here are some tips and activities that are great for solo travelers: Engage with Local Culture and Events: Participate in community events at the Aspen Art Museum or attend workshops at the Anderson Ranch Arts Center. These venues often host solo travelers and provide a great opportunity to meet locals and other visitors​. Outdoor Solo Activities: The myriad of trails, such as those at Maroon Bells, are perfect for solo hiking. Start early in the day to enjoy the tranquility and safety in numbers as more hikers are likely to be on the trails​​. Relaxing Retreats: Visit the local spas for a day of pampering. Many of Aspen’s spas offer treatments that cater to rejuvenation and wellness, which can be a perfect solo activity to relax and refresh. Join Group Tours: Opt for group outdoor activities like bike tours or guided hikes. These are not only safe but also a great way to meet other travelers. Companies such as Blazing Adventures or Aspen Outfitting Company provide group tours that maintain a safe and sociable environment​. Local Tips When planning your trip, consider the array of accommodations from luxury resorts to cozy cabins to enrich your stay. It’s advisable to book activities like the Maroon Bells shuttle in advance to ensure availability​​. Also, staying hydrated and prepared for altitude changes will make outdoor activities more enjoyable. Keep up-to-date with local news and weather forecasts to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Aspen’s mountain weather can change rapidly, and being prepared will help you enjoy your activities safely. Aspen is generally safe, but it’s wise to stay vigilant in the evenings like any tourist destination. Stick to well-lit areas and main streets if you’re out late and consider using taxis or rideshare services rather than walking alone at night. By combining these activities, your trip to Aspen can be as dynamic or relaxed as you desire, offering a rich mix of natural beauty, cultural richness, and adventure that makes it a standout summer destination. ITINERARY: Here’s a four-day itinerary from my last trip, with some restaurant picks thrown in for good measure, to use as an idea starter for your visit: Day 1: Discover Downtown Aspen and Local Culture Morning: Start your first day with breakfast at Poppycock’s Café, known for its oatmeal pancakes and freshly brewed coffee. After breakfast, take a leisurely stroll through downtown Aspen to explore the local shops and galleries. Lunch: Enjoy a light lunch at The Wild Fig, a European-style brasserie with a cozy atmosphere, perfect for refueling

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