La Chandeleur: The French Celebration of Crepes
February 2nd in France just might be the tastiest holiday of the year! Happy La Chandeleur!
This festival, falling exactly 40 days after Christmas, intertwines the threads of a Catholic holiday with those of an older, pre-Christian celebration that heralded the harvest and the midpoint of winter. Over time, these traditions have coalesced into today’s La Chandeleur, or Candlemas, spotlighting the crêpe—a dish symbolic of the sun and the circle of life, with its round shape and communal enjoyment reflecting a history where popes would distribute food to the poor on this day. And how does one celebrate? By eating crepes, of course!
The crêpe, a staple of French cuisine, owes its origins to Brittany in northwest France, where it was initially made with buckwheat, a crop well-suited to the region’s harsh conditions. Today, crêpes come in myriad varieties, from the simple suzette, flambéed with a sauce of caramelized sugar, butter, citrus juice, and Grand Marnier, to savory galettes stuffed with anything from ham and cheese to eggs and spinach.
La Chandeleur is steeped in superstition. It’s not just about eating crêpes but how you eat them. Traditionally, crêpes are eaten at dinner, not breakfast, and the first crêpe made, often kept for luck, is tucked away in a drawer or cabinet. Some in France place a coin on the crêpe while it cooks to bring luck, while others hold a coin in their right hand and flip the crêpe with their left—if successful, prosperity is believed to follow for the rest of the year. It’s customary too, to sip boozy cider from a round bowl while enjoying your crepes.
You must admit, that while Americans might bundle up on February 2nd to observe a groundhog predicting the weather, the French have a decidedly more delightful tradition. That said, according to lore, if it rains on La Chandeleur, forty more days of rain will follow, but a sunny day suggests an impending end to winter—so somehow that groundhog’s predictive talents are intertwined here too.
Where is the best place to celebrate?
If you’re not in Paris to partake in the festivities, fear not. Many cities around the world with French communities or robust culinary scenes will have their own observances. From quaint bistros in New York to charming crêperies in Montreal, the opportunity to indulge in this cherished culinary tradition is never far away. Each place offers its unique twist on the classic, whether it’s a creperie in the Latin Quarter of Paris or a trendy new spot in San Francisco. Wherever you are, La Chandeleur offers a delicious excuse to brighten the midwinter gloom with a plate of crêpes, proving yet again how the French have mastered the art of celebrating life with good food and good company.
The crepe:
I honestly can’t remember when I had my first crepe, but I can look back fondly on a delicious Quebec City experience far before my “try-every-crepe-in-Paris” phase. I was in Quebec for a few days of work one October and on Rue Saint-Jean was a bistro that always smelled like someone was cooking something really yummy when I walked by. So of course, I went in. I found it to contain a few cozy tables, a curved bar with people chatting softly and a few guys behind the counter making crepes. I asked for a savory option, after chatting a few minutes with one of them, leaving the ingredients up to him, and was served a ham and cheese crepe that was the perfect choice. When you take your first bite, it’s so delicious that your eyes get wide, and you can’t help but smile. The cheese is gooey, the ham is a little smoky, and the thin crepe is so soft it almost melts in your mouth; a touch of Dijon giving it just a little tangy kick. You eat slowly, wanting to enjoy every single bite while watching the leaves dance in the wind outside the window.
Sweet crepes are generally more popular worldwide, especially as a dessert or snack. These often come with toppings like Nutella, fruit, whipped cream, or sugar and are commonly found at street food stands and in casual dining spots. However, savory crepes, which might be filled with ingredients like cheese, ham, spinach, or eggs, are also widely enjoyed, particularly in France where crepes originated. Savory crepes are often served as a meal, making them a versatile choice for any time of day. In different regions, the preference between sweet and savory can vary based on local culinary traditions and personal tastes.