Exploring Denali National Park

Just below the midpoint of the vast Alaskan wilderness, is Denali National Park, an expansive natural haven that stretches across 7,407.67 square miles (19,185.79 sq km). This breathtaking landscape is further extended by a preserve, bringing the total protected area to an awe-inspiring 9,446 square miles (24,464 sq km). At the heart of this unparalleled wilderness stands Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, North America’s tallest peak, which soars to an impressive height of 20,310 feet (6,190 m). Denali’s grandeur is not only in its height but also in its prominence and isolation, ranking third globally in both categories, making it a monumental feature of the natural world, rivaling even Mount Everest in terms of its vertical rise.

While Mount Everest claims the title of the earth’s highest point, Denali boasts a remarkable aspect of being the tallest mountain when measured from base to peak. Unlike Everest, which rises 12,000 feet (3,700 m) from its base, Denali’s towering presence ascends a staggering 18,000 feet (5,500 m) from its foundation to the summit. This distinct characteristic places Denali among the Seven Natural Wonders of North America and secures its position as one of the official Seven Summits, a coveted achievement for climbers worldwide.

Denali’s landscape is adorned with two majestic peaks, with the southern summit marking the mountain’s highest point. Adventurers and climbers often set their sights on this southern peak, aiming to conquer North America’s tallest summit. The mountain is flanked by massive glaciers such as Kahiltna, Peters, Muldrow, Ruth, and Traleika, each contributing to the park’s dramatic scenery and ecological diversity.

Beyond the towering heights of Denali, the national park is a mosaic of ecosystems. Lower elevations are home to dense forests of spruces, pines, and larches, gradually transitioning to a vast expanse of tundra at mid-level elevations. This tundra, bursting with life, hosts a myriad of plant species, including mosses, ferns, and over 450 varieties of flowering plants, painting the landscape with vibrant colors during the summer and offering spectacular fall foliage.

Access to Denali National Park is carefully managed to preserve its untouched beauty, with vehicle access limited to the first 15 miles. Beyond this point, visitors explore the park’s wonders via bus, journeying to various stops and lookouts, each offering a unique perspective of this magnificent wilderness.

Denali’s wildlife is as diverse and abundant as its landscapes. From the majestic grizzly and black bears to the stealthy wolves, moose, caribou, and Dall sheep, the park is a sanctuary for large mammals. Smaller creatures, including foxes, lynx, and a plethora of bird species like hawks and golden eagles, add to the park’s rich biodiversity, creating a living tapestry of the Alaskan wilds.

Fun fact: there are no snakes in Denali!

My trip to Denali went like this:

Departure from Anchorage

“Listen up, fellow travelers!” The conductor’s voice crackled over the intercom. “We’re bound for Denali National Park, where the wild reigns supreme.”  He wasn’t wrong.

The sun was just peeking out as I boarded the Denali Star Train in Anchorage on a July morning. This is a full-day train ride through Alaska’s untamed wilderness that takes about 8 hours from Anchorage allowing for a restful experience with food and drink onboard and great views of the wilderness.  You can also go by bus (about 6 hours), or car (5 hours—but I was concerned over not winning the car lottery and not getting to drive the full Denali Road once I got there, so didn’t see the point of renting a car). With these considerations and the fact that there are very few places to stop along the way, the train felt like a unique adventure and a chance to socialize a bit and see where other travelers were coming from and going to.  While it costs a bit more than a bus, the Denali Star offers broad views of the scenery via domed glass windows, as well as two full meals and drinks on board as part of the cost. You can also move around to the viewing platform.  (The Denali Star train is $180 per adult each way to/from Anchorage; $80 if you ride the train to or from Fairbanks, which is about a 4-hour trip).

As the train chugged northward, my eyes were glued out the window. The Knik River flowed alongside us, its shimmering waters reflecting the morning light. Beyond, the Chugach Mountains greeted us with snow-capped peaks.  Trees, wildflowers, and wildlife were on full display for the complete duration of the trip.

“Susitna River on the left!” the conductor announced. I glimpsed Denali—a distant giant—its snowy crowns piercing the sky. The train hugged the tracks, revealing vistas that stole my breath. The Hurricane area unfolded—a wild expanse of rivers and valleys. From the Hurricane Gulch bridge, I nervously considered the sheer drop below—although the train going around the curve makes for an excellent photo.

Denali National Park Unveiled

“Next stop: Denali!” Denali’s Broad Pass and the Alaska Range stretched before us, and there was a collective awe as everyone got off the train.

To start my 3-day stay here off right, my first stop was the visitor center (open only May-September) which is directly across from the train depot.  Here you can learn more about the park, grab a bite (the café here is quite good), and join a ranger-led talk.  There is also an educational film about navigating the wilderness before you head off into the park.  A note about planning your stay: Weather can be unpredictable—even in summer, so it would be a shame if you planned to stay for only a day and faced poor weather with limited visibility and potential trail hazards.  I recommend at least a full 3-day excursion to see it all and not feel rushed, and also have a better chance of actually getting to see the tops of the mountains.

Denali has just one road, and private vehicles can only drive a short portion of it in summer (unless you win the car lottery, where a limited number of private cars can drive the full length each day). Most sightseeing in Denali is done by bus (either a narrated tour bus or a non-narrated transit bus). In the summer (late May through mid-September), there are also three free bus lines around the park entrance area to help visitors travel between the visitor center and other facilities. They are called the Savage River Shuttle, the Riley Creek Loop Shuttle and the Sled Dog Demonstration Shuttle. The Denali road is closed to cars and buses outside of the summer months.

I started my exploration by joining an outing with a few others on the Meadow View Trail, which was an easy and mostly level 2-mile loop (when linked to the Rock Creek and Roadside trails) with scenic views of the meadows below.  It was a pleasant walk that would be easy for all ages/hiking abilities and brought us back to the visitor’s center.

After a quick bio-break I went back out on the Horseshoe Lake Trail in the hopes of seeing more wildlife.  A few other trails you can take from the visitor’s center are McKinley Station Trail, a 1.6-mile out-and-back hike connects the Denali Visitor Center to the Riley Creek Campground (which I did later), winding through the park’s woodlands​, and the Taiga Trail, a moderate, 1.6-mile loop trail that serves as a connector for other trails in the park.

Camping at Riley Creek:

Riley Creek Campground, located just inside the park entrance, is a haven for weary travelers. It’s the largest campground in Denali, offering sites that can accommodate both tents and RVs (up to 40 feet in length). No electrical or water hookups for RVs here, but fear not—the nearby Riley Creek Mercantile has you covered. This general store stocks camping supplies, food, and even offers shower facilities and laundry services. If you’re in an RV, there’s a convenient dump/fill station nearby. A small section in the third loop is designated as walk-in, tent-only camping—perfect for those seeking a more secluded experience. Remember, these walk-in sites can only be booked upon arriving in the park, not in advance. So, if spontaneity is your style, this is your spot! Reservations for other sites can be made online starting December 1 of the year before your visit.

The next day, armed with a trail map, I ventured into the forest. The scent of pine enveloped me—this has got to be one of the best smells in the world.  I know some people yearn for the salt air by an ocean or the Cinnabon smell that gets you as you enter a truck stop (which may be the #2 best scent in the world), but the scent of pine needles just brings me peace. I started with the Savage River Loop Trail which meandered down the river, over a footbridge, and back. It’s a 1.7-mile loop, easy and well-maintained, with limited elevation climb, and no major uphill sections. Along the way, I marveled at the snow-capped peaks, the rushing river, and the birch groves. Keep an eye out for wildlife—the elusive ptarmigans, the red squirrels, and as the sun goes down, I even had a distant glimpse of a moose.

Wildlife Encounters: Over my few days in the park, I spotted lots of Dall sheep perched on rocky ledges, surveying their domain. Wolves remained elusive, but their presence lingered and they made themselves known with their howls at night.  Moose enjoyed themselves in the water, peeking out more as the sun went down.  Birds were plentiful, though I admit to not being very good at identifying all the species.  I did not see any bears on this trip, but I was OK with that.

 

I chatted with a few folks back at camp who had hiked the Mount Healy Trail and saw all sorts of wildlife—including bears.  This is a challenging climb up to the Mount Healy Overlook, with an extension up to the summit of Mount Healy—totaling almost 5 miles up and back.  It is the steepest trail in Denali and takes about 3.5 hours to complete—plus any time you take to relax and enjoy the summit.  The hike has an elevation gain of approximately 1,700 feet to the overlook point. The trailhead starts at 1,800 feet, and the overlook is at 3,500 feet​.  Along this trail you can enjoy expansive views of the Denali National Park entrance area, the Nenana River Valley, Healy Ridge, and nearby alpine ridges. The trail initially winds through a spruce forest before opening up to reveal dramatic vistas​. Halfway up, there are benches where you can rest and enjoy the overlook before the climb becomes even steeper​. This trail is best for those who are fit and sure-footed.  The incline is significant and the terrain is uneven and can get very slippery. 

Here are a few more of the great experiences I highly recommend while at the park:

• Flightseeing: Splurge on a flightseeing tour. Imagine soaring above Denali’s icy expanse, glimpsing the Muldrow Glacier, tracing the Wickersham Wall, and spotting wildlife from above. Costs vary, but the experience is priceless.
• Mountain Vista Drive: Hop on the park shuttle or drive to Mountain Vista. The panorama of Denali is spellbinding. The shuttle costs around $34 per person.
• Take the drive up the Denali Road. Guided and non-guided buses are available.
• Citizen Science: Join the Alpine Wildlife Project. Snap photos of pika, marmots, and Dall sheep. Your lens becomes a scientist’s tool. It’s free, and your observations contribute to valuable research.
• Fishing or boating at Wonder Lake: This is the largest body of water in the park and also one of the deepest high-altitude lakes in the US, making it a popular spot for boating and fishing. The calm waters of the lake make it a picture-perfect spot for catching reflections of the surrounding mountains and trees.
• Whitewater rafting: While the water is cold, class II and III rapids keep your blood pumping on the Nenana River. The overnight camping trip brings you through the higher-intensity rapids, while beginners can opt for the 4-hour day trip through gentler waters.
• Dog Sledding: Visit the sled dog kennels. Denali is the only park with working “ranger” sled dogs—as they have been since the 1920s. Every kennel’s ranger has a story of wise lead dogs helping them navigate to a patrol cabin in a whiteout or to avoid dangerous ice obscured under snow. The dogs know this landscape well and they can provide invaluable wisdom that machines cannot. While a team of sled dogs is obviously far slower than an airplane or a snowmobile, they are arguably more reliable to operate in the extreme conditions of a sub-arctic winter. These hardworking huskies are the unsung heroes of Denali. Attend a ranger-led mushing demonstration and learn about the art of mushing. It’s free, but consider making a donation to support these incredible dogs. The Kennels are open year-round, but check the hours when you get to the park. Knowing I was headed to the kennels, I picked up a few dog treats from the general store near the campground and got a few puppy kisses in exchange—but I did need to give them to the ranger to pass to the dogs.  Did you know that you can also adopt a sled dog retiree? If you live in a cold area, lead an active outdoorsy life, and fit a few other qualifications, you may have an ideal home for one of these wonderful dogs once they are past their working years.  Here is the adoption form if you’re interested in adopting a Denali Sled Dog.

After my visit to Denali I took the bus up to Fairbanks (about a 3-hour ride) for a different view and to continue on my adventures.

 

 

 

 

 

When to visit and what to pack for Denali

The summer months are the best time to visit when longer days allow for more time to explore.  August is the sweet spot for weather, long days, and the fewest mosquitos.

What to pack:

For light to moderate hiking and touring:

• Clothing: Shorts and T-shirts are typically fine in the summer, but bring layers as the sun goes down as it can get chilly. I prefer long pants and long-sleeved T’s (I love lightweight merino for this) for a bit more bug and sun protection.  Pack layers of quick-drying clothing in case you get caught in rain.
• Rain gear: waterproof rain jacket and water-repellant or quick-dry pants. Ponchos do not allow scrambling and can get caught and torn on the brush that lines the trails, so are not recommended.
• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots (with comfortable wool or synthetic socks) are needed for some of the more challenging trails. If you’re planning on only light hiking and bus/car touring, hiking sandals or sneakers will suffice.
• Backpack: lightweight and water-repellant tote to hold your water bottle, snacks, extra layers, hat, medicines, etc.
• Mosquito repellent, especially if you’ll be near Wonder Lake or Teklanika River
• Sunscreen
• Camera/phone (and back up power bank—you’ll be taking lots of photographs!); note, your phone will not get a cellular connection in the park.
• Medicines
• Water bottle
• Sunglasses

If you are planning more robust hiking or backpacking/camping:

• ALL of the above plus:
• Sturdy hiking boots that are waterproofed
• A backpack that can hold your tent, personal gear, and a Bear Resistant Food Container (BRFC).
• Gaiters and trekking poles for river crossings, loose rock, etc.
• Clothing: hat and gloves (wool or fleece), warm layers (wool or synthetic pullover, vest, or lightweight jacket), shirts (short and long-sleeved), pants (lightweight, quick-drying and breathable), long underwear top and bottom (wool or synthetic), stove, fuel, cookware and water bottles, water filter (preferably equipped with a silt stopper device) or water purifying tablets, and dense, high-calorie food that fits in the BRFC and cooks quickly.
• Compass and map. While a GPS unit is useful, it should be used to supplement a topographic map, not in place of one. Because you won’t know precisely where in the park you’ll camp until you are here and acquire a permit, we recommend you wait to buy any USGS quadrant maps until you are here.
• Sanitary items, e.g., toilet paper, trowel, a bag for used toilet paper and other items. All of this must be stored in the BRFC and packed out, not buried or burned.
• Tent with rain fly and waterproof floor. Bivouacking or camping with only a tarp is not recommended.
• Sleeping bag and pad. For any overnight summer trip, protection to 20° F/-7° C is suggested. Visitors coming in other seasons should be prepared for very cold temperatures.
• Insect repellent and/or head net. Mosquitoes are usually bad from May to early August, although the biting insect season lasts another month in wetter parts of the park (e.g., around Wonder Lake).
• Emergency gear, such as first aid kit, knife and a signaling device such as a whistle or signal mirror
• Large plastic or waterproof bags to protect the gear inside your pack, particularly if your pack is not water-proof. Even if you have a rain cover for your pack, keeping your clothes and sleeping bag in plastic trash bags within your pack is a smart idea.
• A change of shoes for camp, to lower your impact on the vegetation and to change out of wet boots
• Waterproof case for your electronic device(s).
• Sun protection (e.g., sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat). Plan for sunny or rainy weather, even though rainy weather is more likely.
• Toiletries (e.g., toothbrush and toothpaste, hand sanitizer, lip balm). Remember, though: all of your items with an odor must fit in your Bear Resistant Food Container
• Bear spray. Carrying bear spray is up to you—it is not required, though it is recommended. However, bear spray is no substitute for behaving correctly in bear country, so do not be complacent or over-confident around wildlife simply because you have bear spray. Conditions must be ideal for bear spray to be effective (e.g. wind direction, weather, distance from the animal).

If you are planning on fishing or cycling, bring all the gear you will need for those activities.  There are no rentals in the park.

Pets: Pets are welcome in Denali National Park and Preserve, but there are specific regulations in place to protect other visitors, wildlife, and the pets themselves. Here are the key rules for bringing pets to the park:

• Pets must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet at all times.
• Owners are required to clean up after their pets.
• Pets may be walked on the park road, in parking lots, and on campground roads.
• Pets are not allowed on park trails, in the backcountry, or on buses, with the exceptions being the Roadside Trail and the Bike Path where pets can be walked on a leash​.

These regulations are in place to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience for all park visitors, as well as to protect the natural wildlife and the pets themselves from potential hazards.

I hope this has inspired you to visit this majestic park.  Happy travels!