Grand Canyon Solo Traveler Adventure — South Rim hiking and exploring
Now that we’re locked in for a while (thank you, Covid-19), it feels like a great time to take a closer look at the natural landscapes around the USA that are open for exploration. Let’s take a moment to daydream about the Grand Canyon National Park, tucked away in Arizona’s vast landscapes, a colorful jewel of the American Southwest. The gigantic chasm stretches as far as the eye can see, carved by the relentless flow of the Colorado River. Rather than being a single chasm, it’s a vast network of smaller canyons, each carved over millennia by tributaries of the Colorado River. It’s like a giant, open-air museum showcasing Earth’s history through its vibrant layers of rock. In total it’s a colossal 277 miles long, can be over 18 miles wide, and dives down over a mile deep in places. The sheer scale of it is enough to stir the soul of anyone feeling a bit cooped up these days. Hence my latest adventure–which I think will become the start of many trips around the National Parks.
Read on for my full itinerary.
Let me set the scene
Imagine the canyon under the shifting light of the sun, its colors transforming from dawn to dusk, and throughout the seasons. In winter, a dusting of snow adds a magical touch to the already mesmerizing landscape, painting it with strokes of white over reds, browns, and greens. Photographers are enraptured by the Grand Canyon’s landscapes, drawn to the interplay of light and shadow that paints a mesmerizing spectacle upon the canyon walls. The golden hues of sunrise and sunset imbue the cliffs with a radiant warmth, while the shifting shadows of midday cast dynamic contrasts that beg to be captured through the lens. The Canyon’s beauty is ever-changing, a living canvas that invites contemplation and appreciation of the transient nature of time and light in the natural world.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the second most visited national park in the United States—and a beautiful place to visit in any season.
North Rim vs South Rim?
Most folks tend to gravitate towards the South Rim, which captures the heart of about 90% of the park’s visitors. But here’s a little secret: there’s so much more to the Grand Canyon than the well-trodden paths of the South Rim. The North Rim and the vast expanses beyond the rims offer rugged adventures for those itching to explore the backcountry—accessible only by pack trails and back roads. Grand Canyon West is an area that has been most recently developed (by the Hualapai Tribe), and where you’ll find the Grand Canyon Skywalk.
Wildlife
Natural residents of the park include cougars and bighorn sheep to the fleet-footed elk and mule deer, it’s a wildlife enthusiast’s dream. If you’re lucky, you might even spot the rare California condor soaring above or catch a glimpse of a bald eagle. And yes, while the park is home to some of nature’s less cuddly creatures like rattlesnakes and scorpions, it’s also a playground for the more charming inhabitants like the collared lizard and the chuckwalla. Beyond the park’s boundaries are national monuments, reservations, national forests, and the Navajo Nation.
Here are the details from my visit to help guide yours:
Let’s begin.
It all started at Flagstaff Airport, where I was greeted by a blast of warm air and sunshine—a welcome change from the still chilly days back home. I picked up a cute little rental (somehow upgraded to a convertible—this was going to be a fun drive!) and headed off on the 90-mile drive to the Canyon. The drive took about 2 hours. It might be less for some folks, but I got distracted by the beautiful Coconino National Forrest and had to stop for a few photos. Just outside the park entrance I passed through the town of Tusayan, a small town with a surprisingly diverse array of dining options—and an IMAX theater—just in case the views of the canyon aren’t big enough for you (or if you hit a rainy day). I figured I’d stop for a bite before entering the park and found a great pizza place that did not disappoint, We Cook Pizza & Pasta (https://wecookpizzaandpasta.com). The place has been making people happy with their pizza for over 40 years. I could see why. Fully fueled, into the park I went.
Entering the Realm of Giants
I arrived at the South Rim entrance, my heart doing a little jig. It had been a long time since I had visited the canyon and I was a bit giddy with anticipation of seeing it again—and escaping the Covid-19 lockdown to do so. At the visitor’s center, the ranger walked me through the trail map and gave a few pointers. There is a whole “village” in this area with lots of hotels and places to eat. First stop: Mather Point. Mather Point is a mere 5-minute walk from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center. It’s the first view of the canyon for many—a grand introduction. On a clear day, you can see 30+ miles to the east and 60+ miles to the west. The canyon sprawled before me, a masterpiece of colors—layers of rock painted in hues of rust and ochre—created by time and erosion. I spotted a few small bits of the Colorado River, glimpses of Phantom Ranch nestled at the bottom, and the intricate web of trails crisscrossing the landscape. I leaned on the sun-warmed railing, shutting out the hum of the other visitors, and feeling infinitesimal against this massive canyon. Photos just can’t capture this view–no matter how many I took during my stay. I could stare at this view for hours but will take a break for a hike and then return at sunset to watch the change in colors as the sun dips—shifting to pinks, oranges, and purples.
I headed for Bright Angel Trail. The afternoon air smelled of pine and adventure. A few notes here: the Bright Angel Trailhead is conveniently located just west of the Bright Angel Lodge, making it an easy starting point for hikers and mules venturing into the Grand Canyon’s depths. The trailhead sits at an elevation of 6,840 feet (2,085 meters). To reach it, follow the path along the rim, and you’ll see the trail near the mule corral. It’s a mere 5-minute walk from the lodge to the trailhead. If you prefer to drive, limited parking is available next to the trailhead, but it often fills up early in the morning. Alternatively, you can park at the Backcountry Information Center and walk about 5–10 minutes along the sidewalk past Maswik Lodge to reach the trailhead. Another option is to park at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center and take the free Village Route (Blue) shuttle bus, which is a 20-minute one-way trip. Remember to consult the signs at the trailhead for trip planning, current weather, trail information, and closures. And don’t forget to fill up your water bottles and/or bladders at the new water bottle filling station inside an elk-proof metal cage attached to the side of the restroom closest to the stone mule corral.
You really need to be prepared to hike this trail. Really. It’s brutal.
The Bright Angel Trail is approximately 9.5 miles long from the South Rim trailhead to Bright Angel Campground, just across the Colorado River. The round trip typically spans between 9 to 12 hours. The trail starts at an elevation of 6,860 feet and descends to the Colorado River, reaching a minimum elevation of 2,500 feet. That’s a whopping 4,800 feet of elevation change! Considered strenuous (I agree 100%), this trail challenges hikers with steep switchbacks and relentless elevation changes. It is not an easy hike—particularly to climb back up. You are also sharing the trail with mules, so be prepared to flatten yourself to the wall when they pass. I did not have the time—or endurance—to do the full trail in an afternoon, and I was very appreciative of the rest houses along the way where hikers are encouraged to take breaks. Figuring that it was best to climb back out of the canyon before it got dark, I hiked down for only about an hour before turning back.
Hiking down is less than half the difficulty of hiking back up, especially when you’re already tired. Plan ahead.
What to Expect Along the Way—if you do the full hike
First Tunnel: A short 0.1-mile roundtrip detour takes you to the First Tunnel. Enjoy the views and snap some photos. This spot gives a good feel of the view below the canyon rim.
Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse: About 3 miles from the trailhead, this resthouse offers a chance to rest and refuel. The elevation change here is 1,120 feet.
Three-Mile Resthouse: At 6 miles roundtrip, this stop provides a more extended break. The elevation change is 2,120 feet.
Havasupai Gardens: Check with a park ranger before attempting this section. It’s a longer hike, but the views are worth it.
The entire trail offers both sun and shade, making it a pleasant hike (incline and switchbacks aside!) during different times of the day.
West Rim Road to Hermit’s Rest
Next to the trailhead is the shuttle bus stop where shuttles head off to multiple stops and incredible views. I took the ride out west to Hermit’s Rest (on the West Rim Road). You can hop out of the shuttle at various points (and even hook up with the rim trail if you’d like to walk a bit of it). If you stay on the bus, it is about a 20-minute drive to Hermit’s Rest.
Note, during the summer, you cannot take a private car—only shuttle buses can travel this road. The timing for this drive was perfect as the sun was beginning to lower. Hopi Point was one of my favorite views from this road. There is also a visitor’s center with restrooms here. Definitely worth the hop off the bus and a walk-about.
Day 2:
I roll out of bed, laced up my hiking boots, and followed my intense need for coffee to the Bright Angel Restaurant inside the lodge. They served up my morning brew along with pancakes and a side of awe. Imagine being seated by a window, the fog of sleep not quite cleared, and you realize that you have paused with fork in mid-air as you stare beyond the glass at the canyon stretching to infinity. Yeah, that’s the view here. Not a bad way to start the day!
After a delightful breakfast, I set my sights on Desert View Watchtower, perched on the eastern edge 
of the Grand Canyon. The ranger had told me it was a 45-minute drive from Mather Point along the scenic Desert View Drive. So, I hopped back into my trusty car, got the engine purring and put the top down. The day was clear and promised to be fantastic.
First a little background on the drive
Desert View Drive is a 25-mile winding road along the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, that offers stunning views and access to some iconic (and challenging!) trails perfect for adventurous hikers. Trails like Grandview, New Hance, and Tanner, are steep and subject to extreme seasonal conditions without water access until you get to the canyon’s bottom—where you’ll also be rewarded with tranquility and sweeping landscapes.
To fully enjoy these trails, start early, and remember to pack plenty of water and sunscreen.
While driving the route, be sure to stop at the marked overlooks for panoramic vistas of the canyon’s vibrant rock layers and superior views of the Colorado River, especially compared to those near the visitor’s center. As you journey east, the canyon widens and shallows, culminating in expansive river views by the Desert View Watchtower.
OK, now we’re off!
Desert View Drive: A Journey Along the Rim
The road wound through piñon pines and junipers, with each curve revealing a new vista—the canyon’s colors shifting from burnt sienna to deep indigo. With the roof open, crisp air filled the car. The Colorado River flowed far, far, below—barely a sliver was visible from the rim.
Pipe Creek Vista: The First Glimpse
At Pipe Creek Vista I pulled over. The view was staggering—a panorama of cliffs and ravines. Just east of Yuki Point my eye was the formation known as the “Duck on a Rock”. Early mapmakers supposedly saw castles and temples in these rocks (so said the Ranger there—I love all the interesting tidbits they pass along), but I completely see the duck sitting there. I snapped a photo, promising to look for more hidden shapes as I journeyed eastward. Moran Point (named after the artist Thomas Moran) and Lipan Point were my favorite views, and the Tusayan Ruin and Museum is worth a stop off as well.
Desert View Watchtower
Finally, the watchtower loomed ahead. I found parking in the lot and started exploring. The tower stands 70 feet high, its circular form echoing the ancestral Puebloan watchtowers. Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter designed this tower (and some other structures in the park—including the Bright Angel Lodge), and drew inspiration from the Ancestral Puebloan people of the Colorado Plateau. The tower was patterned after those found at Hovenweep and the Round Tower of Mesa Verde. Colter’s genius lay in her ability to evoke the past while creating something entirely new. She once said, “First and most important, was to design a building that would become part of its surroundings; one that would create no discordant note against the time-eroded walls of this promontory.” And indeed, the tower blended seamlessly with the canyon walls.
Kiva Room in the Watchtower
Stepping through the heavy wooden doors brought me to the Kiva Room, modeled after a traditional Native American kiva. Circular and cozy, the room hosts cultural handicraft demonstrations throughout the year. The log-beam ceiling and the fireplace were lovely, but the windows stole the show, each a frame for the canyon’s ever-changing beauty.
Reflectoscopes and Murals in the Watchtower
In the View Room, I discovered reflectoscopes—black glass viewing instruments that cut through the haze and glare of sunlight, revealing the canyon’s multi-colored layers. I marveled at the murals by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie, their vibrant strokes capturing the spirit of this ancient land.
Climbing Higher in the Watchtower
I continued up the narrow staircase (the tower is 5 stories high). The tower’s interior is an open shaft, with circular balconies overlooking the central space. Only the uppermost observation area had a complete floor. Sadly, the log ladder to the rooftop observation deck was closed.
Heading back down the Desert View Drive
Leaving the watchtower, which is perched at the eastern edge of the canyon providing a panoramic sweep of the area, the road initially curves through sections where the Colorado River appears as a blue ribbon threading through the canyon floor. It’s a striking contrast to the arid desert environment and the towering rock formations. I took a bit more time to stop off at the observation areas, as the shifting light was already changing them.
Moran Point
My first recommended stop after the watchtower is Moran Point. Here, the layers of rock tell a vivid story of geological time, and the view includes a mix of wide canyon expanses and the narrower, more rugged profiles that are characteristic of the eastern sections of the park. Moran is known for his paintings of the great outdoors, including the Grand Canyon and this viewpoint commemorates his art.
Lipan Point
Further along, Lipan Point provides one of the most dramatic overlooks on this drive. From here, you can see the Unkar Creek area in the inner canyon, and on clear days, the rapids of the Colorado River are visible, their white water breaking the tranquility of the deep canyon. More geological layers are visible here.
Grandview Point
Approaching Grandview Point, the remains of old mining tracks hint at the human history intertwined with this natural wonder. This point offers a higher vantage, ideal for watching the sun set or rise, painting the sky and the tops of the canyon walls in hues of orange, pink, and deep red. The pull-off gets quite crowded here at sunset.
Yavapai Point & Geology Museum
The drive continues to be leisurely and introspective, with each curve and crest revealing yet another awe-inspiring view. Yavapai Point is my final stop before reaching the visitor center. It’s one of the best spots to understand the canyon’s complex geology, with telescopes and interpretive panels providing insights into the visible rock strata. Here, I also explored the Yavapai Geology Museum, where Rangers explain the geological history of the canyon and insights on how it was formed. The museum features a range of exhibits that explain the complex geologic history of the area. These include detailed diagrams, maps, and interactive displays that trace the canyon’s formation over millions of years.
The displays are well-designed to be accessible and informative for all ages, making complex scientific concepts understandable. The focus of the museum is primarily on geology, and it effectively illustrates concepts like plate tectonics, volcanic activity, erosion, and sedimentation—all of which have played roles in the development of the Grand Canyon. By using specific examples from the canyon, the museum shows how these natural processes are visible in the layered rock formations. The museum offers one of the best vantage points for viewing the canyon. The panoramic windows frame stunning views of the canyon, providing a direct connection between the exhibits inside and the real-world examples just outside—making this museum is a must-visit for an enriched perspective on the Grand Canyon.
Dinner at The Arizona Room
I stopped back at my hotel after the drive and got cleaned up a bit before heading back out into the “Canyon Village” to find some dinner and explore evening activities. I found details on an evening Ranger storytelling session and decided that would make for a fun end of my trip—after catching the sunset and grabbing some dinner. I decided on dinner at the Arizona Room, which was a cozy dining experience of southwestern cuisine with great views. 
As sunset neared the place started emptying out. I followed the crowd to the edge of the rim to watch the sunset (with a few hundred of my closest new friends—so much for social distancing!), did a little shopping in the village for that perfect postcard, then headed over to the amphitheater to catch the Ranger talk. It was a perfect way to end my adventure. In the morning, I’d be off…
Info to know before you go:
The park is open 24/7/365; the shoulder seasons of late Spring and early Fall have the best balance between lighter crowds, moderate temperatures and access around the park. Winter gives a dusting of snow, which is lovely, but trails are a bit more restricted as they get slippery.
The park entrance fee is $30 per vehicle
There are lots of great Ranger-led events, including hikes, and talks in the amphitheater that are definitely worth checking out. Ask for details at the welcome center.
Three things I would have loved to do while at the Grand Canyon, but didn’t get to this time:
- Mule Ride to the Colorado River. I remember doing this ride when I was younger and was amazed at how sure-footed the mules were, even on narrow passes and switchbacks. Experienced wranglers lead the tours, ensuring your safety and sharing fascinating stories.
Mule tours at the Grand Canyon offer a unique way to explore this awe-inspiring wonder. Whether you’re a seasoned rider or a first-timer, riding a mule down into the canyon is an unforgettable experience. From the South Rim, you can take an overnight ride to the Phantom Ranch. This is the ultimate adventure. Descend along the Bright Angel Trail to the Colorado River, where you’ll spend the night at Phantom Ranch. The next day, ride back up to the rim. It’s a two-day journey filled with canyon magic. This trip runs about $700 per person, which includes the ride up and back, nice accommodations at the Phantom Lodge, and breakfast, lunches, and dinner. If you need to rest a little longer at the lodge, there are 2-night options available too.
Other Mule tours include:
Canyon Vistas Ride: A three-hour ride along the rim, offering breathtaking views of the inner canyon. You’ll feel the wind in your hair as you traverse the trail.
Canyon Trail Ride: A two-hour ride that takes you along the rim, allowing you to soak in the grandeur of the canyon. Perfect for those short on time.
North Rim Mule Trips: These rides operate from May 15th to October 15th. While they don’t descend to the Colorado River, they provide stunning views of the canyon. Choose from one-hour rim rides or half-day rim or inner canyon trips.
A few things to note for the mule rides:
Age and Weight Limits: Riders must be at least 9 years old and 57 inches (4’9″) tall. Weight limits vary depending on the trip, but generally, it’s less than 200 lbs. or 225 lbs. fully dressed.
Reservations: South Rim mule rides can be booked 15 months in advance and fill up quickly. Plan ahead! For Phantom Ranch trips, reservations are made through an online lottery.
National Forest Trail Rides: If you’re near the South Rim, consider one-hour and two-hour trail rides through the pines of the Kaibab National Forest. Both horses and mules are used.
- Helicopter ride over the canyon
While expensive, a helicopter tour offers a thrilling and bird’s-eye perspective of this natural wonder. Papillon is the largest and most experienced Grand Canyon helicopter tour company, flying guests since 1965 (https://www.papillon.com/). They fly from the South and West rims (and Las Vegas) and cover the entire Grand Canyon, including areas untouched by man and inaccessible by foot and they have access to a few exclusive landing sites on Hualapai and Navajo Nation lands. These are the folks I’ve flown with in the past and they were great. You can book with them directly or through Viator. Maverick Helicopters depart from Las Vegas and fly over the canyon, Lake Mead, and Hoover Dam on their tours.
FUN FACT: Grand Canyon National Park is 1,218,375 acres making it one of the largest national parks in the Continental US. While a helicopter will see more of it, you still won’t get to see it all!
- North Rim
The North Rim is a bit quieter and has more of a forest experience when driving along the Rim road. The North Rim is also a bit cooler, greener/shadier (due to all the Ponderosa Pines) and has more rain. My favorite time to visit this part of the park is shortly before it closes for the season in October. Aspen trees along the drive turn bright yellow in the fall and are spectacular! The elevation here is 8,000-9,000 feet, which is about 1,500 feet higher than the South Rim. However, the 20-mile drive from the South to the North Rim takes about 5 hours. This side of the canyon also has far fewer amenities. This is wonderful if you are looking for quiet hiking, and likely more wildlife sightings, but may not be of as much interest to children who likely will find the family-friendly activities of the South Rim more engaging. While you’re in the North Rim, don’t miss the Navajo Bridge, a footbridge crossing the Colorado River, Point Imperial Road, which leads up to the highest viewpoint on the North Rim, and the spectacular Cape Royal Road.
FUN FACT: The Grand Canyon is an official UNESCO World Heritage site, one of only 24 in the United States
Learn more
To learn more about scenic drives and other information about the Grand Canyon, make plans to see the Visitor Center (www.explorethecanyon.com), which is located at the south rim entrance of Grand Canyon National Park. The visitor center serves as a destination and a resource for the most comprehensive selection of information about Grand Canyon area hotels, tours, attractions, restaurants and sightseeing and outdoor activities.
For anyone feeling the walls closing in, the Grand Canyon beckons with its open spaces, its ancient layers of geological history, and its breathtaking beauty. There’s still a wild, wonderful world waiting out there. Let’s keep that spirit of exploration alive, shall we?