Uganda: The Pearl of Africa
A 10-day realistic itinerary filled with culture, trekking and wildlife
Uganda flew under my radar for a long time, and a visit is definitely worth adding to your bucket list. Winston Churchill gave Uganda the moniker of the "Pearl of Africa" owing to its vast biodiversity, dramatic landscapes, and remarkable cultural diversity.
It is one of the few places in the world where you can trek to see endangered mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Beyond gorillas, Uganda is home to a rich array of wildlife, including chimpanzees, lions, elephants, giraffes, hippos, and a vast variety of bird species. National parks like Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth offer incredible safari opportunities.
Beyond the wildlife, come prepared for some beautiful scenery. From the lush rainforests of Bwindi to the vast plains of the savanna and the majestic Murchison Falls, Uganda’s landscapes are stunning. Enjoy some of the landscapes by exploring some of the lovely lake areas, hiking in the Rwenzori Mountains or even white-water rafting the Nile. Unlike some other East African destinations, Uganda is less crowded, which for me makes for a more authentic and intimate travel experience. There is also a limited language barrier. English is the official language and is widely spoken.
Of course, what always makes or breaks a trip are the people. Ugandans are known for their warm hospitality and rich cultural heritage. Don’t miss a chance to enjoy a local music or dance performance, and leave space in your bag for some local craft souvenirs.
There are a million things to do and see in Uganda!
While my 10 days were incredible, if I could add a week and slow things down a little or add a few more places (or both!), I would. For instance, I cut the area of Jinga from my itinerary at the last moment as its placement was hard to fit in. Jinga is the “adventure capital” of Uganda, and while I was looking forward to a bit of whitewater rafting down the Nile there, it will need to wait for my next trip. A few days of unscheduled rest and rejuvenate time would have been a nice add to the itinerary too as there is a lot of activity in each day.
I’ll jump into my itinerary next and give you some more tips and considerations at the end to plan an adventure of your own to this “Pearl of Africa.”!
10-days in Uganda as a solo traveler
Day 1: Arrival in Entebbe & Kampala Exploration:
- Arrive at Entebbe International Airport (EBB). This is a newly designed airport that moves efficiently. Taxis and car rentals are conveniently located just outside.
- Transfer to your hotel in Kampala down a beautifully paved road flanked by plantain trees—it’s about a 40-minute-or-so drive (this may have been the smoothest drive I took anywhere in the country). You’ll know you’re close to Kampala when the traffic starts piling up. The capital is a conventional city with high-rise buildings and bustling streets, yet not as crowded (or war torn) as some of the other capital cities in Africa. This is the political, educational and cultural center of the country, and there is much here to explore.
- Depending on your arrival time, go explore Kampala’s cultural sites. My flight arrived early, so there was plenty of the day to see the Kasubi Tombs, Kabaka’s Palace, Gadhafi mosque, and the Uganda Museum. Walking around is generally safe, even for solo females, although you will witness some extreme shifts in socioeconomic situations in various areas of the city.
If you’re feeling adventurous after you drop off your luggage, grab a boda-boda, which is a motorcycle “taxi” (meaning you will be sitting on the back of someone’s motorcycle), and negotiate a rate for a 1- or 2-hour drive through the city. The drivers are masterful at weaving in and out of traffic, and your “tour” will be unlike anything you could plan for with insider tips galore. NOTE: If you are not used to riding on a motorcycle, or if you have a heart condition, this may not be the best mode of transport for you.
There isn’t much regulation of the boda-bodas or their drivers, so if the driver feels a little too wild in their driving style, ask them to slow down. And if that doesn’t work, hop off (after paying them, of course). Sometimes I wonder if they push the boundaries of safety to see how much the foreigners can handle!
- Overnight in Kampala. While you will find some chain hotels such as Hilton and Best Western, smaller locally-owned hotels are a lovely way to experience a more unique local experience. They are also much, much less expensive. Chain hotels will cost $75-150 per night, whereas local hotels are around $10-50. Emma’s Guest house, not far from Kabaka’s Palace, was a whopping $6 for a single room, and was clean, bright, and delightful (and down the road from a very tasty bakery).
Day 2: Kampala to Murchison Falls National Park (Internal Flight):
- Early morning transfer to Entebbe Airport. TIP: leave plenty of time to get to the airport and then to your flight. Traffic can be backed up—especially during rush hours.
- Internal flight to Chobe airstrip, near Murchison Falls National Park. (You can also fly into Pakuba)
- The falls roar through the canyon and can be heard even before you see them. Truly an incredible sight. Easy to get to a viewing area just off the road.
- You can enjoy an afternoon game drive, a boat tour or relax at your lodge. We arrived a bit too late at the lodge due to a flight delay for any additional tours that day, but the lodge was gracious and accommodating and arranged a visit to a small village and a guide to lead us on some birdwatching, which was just the speed I needed after the jet lag started hitting me.
- Overnight in Murchison Falls. There are a lot of nice lodges in this area. My group stayed at the Pakuba Safari Lodge, which was a mid-range place, and quite comfortable. Other travelers raved about the Nile Safari Lodge and the Paraa Safari Lodge, which were both a bit more elegant. I also heard great things about the Bakers Lodge, which is more traditional, yet also high-end.
Day 3: Murchison Falls National Park:
- Morning game drive. Here is where your adventure truly begins. Most game drives take place on the northern bank of the Nile, where wildlife concentrations are highest. You’ll climb into a 4×4, usually with a pop-up roof so you can stand and view/photograph everything at 360 degrees. Surprisingly, there were areas where the guides actually let the guests out of the 4×4 in near proximity of the animals. While yes, I got out, I didn’t exactly position myself at the front of the group! Over the course of the morning, elephants, giraffes, lions, hyenas, antelopes, water buffaloes, and warthogs all made an appearance.
- Afternoon boat cruise on the Nile River to the base of Murchison Falls. The 3- hour tour (cue “Gilligan’s Island theme song here—or am I dating myself? 😊) offers a close-up view of the falls and the “Devil’s Cauldron,” a spot where the river is forced through a narrow gorge, creating a wild rushing and bubbling spectacle. From what our guide said, the water needs to pass through a gorge that is only about 7 meters (23 feet) wide, before plunging down the falls. The pressure that builds up behind that constriction is incredibly powerful—although I felt that the power of the falls was better observed from on land. From the boat you’ll see all the animals coming to get a drink along the riverbed, as well as crocodiles and hippos. My tour was timed to catch the sunset, which made the lighting fantastic and was a good time for animal sightings.
- Overnight in Murchison Falls. Day 2 at Pakuba
- FUN FACT: The falls were named by the explorer Samuel Baker after Sir Roderick Murchison, a prominent geologist and president of the Royal Geographical Society.
- Another FUN FACT: Some of the 1951 film “The African Queen,” starring Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn, was filmed in this location.
Day 4: Murchison Falls to Kibale Forest National Park (Drive):
- Morning: Hike to the top of Murchison Falls. This is a short hike (under an hour) and you can go up to two different view points. A good start to the day.
- Drive to Kibale Forest National Park. This is a long drive, but it can be done in one day. Get comfortable and turn on your favorite audiobook…you’re going to be in the 4×4 for a while…
- Overnight in Kibale. We were at the Kibale Forest Camp, staying in tent structures in the forest. The air smelled amazing. I can’t even describe what the scent was, but I would have loved to bottle it. Dinner was served in an open-air grass hut overlooking a garden. It was a filling meal of Matooke (a steamed green banana), a stew, beans and grilled chicken, all with a flavor that was faintly reminiscent of Indian or Arabic cooking. And yes, I’ll be sharing some recipes in the recipe section of the site soon! Not only was the lodge beautiful and comfortable, but it was very close to the start of where our trek would start in the morning, leaving a few extra minutes for relaxing on the terrace of my tent with a cup of coffee, just listening to the birds at the start of the day.
Day 5: Kibale Chimpanzee Trekking:
- Morning chimpanzee trekking in Kibale Forest. This is an early morning start (with a breakfast of fresh fruit and coffee to prelude the trek). You’ll get a quick briefing on how to behave around the chimps at the visitor center, and then head in to the forest in small groups with a guide. I’ve got a full article about the whole day HERE. You’ll get to enjoy the daily antics of the very active (and loud) chimps, along with those of other animals, birds and insects in the dense forest.
- Afternoon: Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary walk. From the visitor center, I took a boda-boda for the 15-minute ride to the Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary. Here I met another guide and small group for a peaceful stroll across raised wooden pathways through the marshy grassland. This is a bird-lover’s paradise, with a few lively monkeys thrown in for good measure.
- Overnight in Kibale. I was back to camp late afternoon, with plenty of time to wash up and journal before dinner of grilled chicken, pumpkin soup (beautifully seasoned!) and more fresh fruit, all served at a communal table with other travelers.
Day 6: Kibale to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (Drive):
- Drive to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. This is a long drive (8 hours on a small shuttle bus organized by the lodge), but is very scenic. The road curved through rolling hills covered in emerald-green tea plantations, dotted with colorful houses, tiny villages, and roadside markets. Women in brightly patterned dresses walked along the road, balancing impossibly large baskets or bundles of firewood gracefully on their heads, while smiling kids waved enthusiastically as we passed. About 2 hours into the drive is a typical stop at Fort Portal, where there were a few lively markets (especially as a few other tour buses released their passengers), and some small “cafes” where I grabbed some hot chapati and a cold bottle of passionfruit juice. As we continued on the landscape changed to open savannah and herds of elephants grazed along the roadside. Our driver was kind enough to pause until we all had our fill photographing and admiring them.
A few more hours down the road was a stop just outside Queen Elizabeth National Park. By this time, the strangers on the bus had all been chatting for a few hours and, without prompting, all sat together for a quick lunch of tasty matoke (mashed green bananas), beans cooked with fragrant spices, and fresh local veggies.
Continuing on to Bwindi, the landscape dramatically changed (again!), with the green plains growing into towering mountains. The road became narrower, bumpier and steeper (this is where my anti-motion sickness bands finally went on!). By late afternoon we entered the area around Bwindi, the lush green slopes blanketed in dense jungle and arrived at the Buhoma Lodge around 4:00, plenty of time to freshen up and enjoy the views from the veranda—curled up on a comfy sofa with a lap blanket, as others made their way and started settling in around the fireplace as the chill of the night rolled in.
Keep in mind, Gorilla trekking primarily takes place in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, both located at high altitudes. This results in cooler temperatures compared to Uganda’s lowland regions. Treks begin in the early mornings, when it can be quite chilly (in the 50s F, which feels cold compared to where we were yesterday). As the day goes on, it’s a bit milder, with significant drops in temperature by evening. Pack accordingly with layers (and a light waterproof jacket).
Day 7: Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi:
- Gorilla trekking experience. This was the wildest trek I had ever been on—solely because of how close you get to the gorillas. Full details HERE.
- Afternoon: Take a culture hike and explore local market stalls. Don’t miss picking up some locally-made beeswax lip balm, and boldly-patterned textiles—made into everything from coin purses to dresses.
- Overnight in Bwindi.
Day 8: Bwindi to Queen Elizabeth National Park (Drive):
- Drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park. This is a 4-5 hour drive back out of the mountains that starts early in the morning. The roads change from windy and bumpy to dirt to eventually paved and straight the closer you get to Queen Elizabeth. Along the way, the view also ranges from the mountains to the farmland, with terraced hillsides, plantations for bananas and tea, and a few small villages. We took a stop at the “Mountains of the Moon” panoramic viewpoint over the Rwenzori Mountains, and a stop at a roadside market for fuel and snacks.
- Afternoon game drive. Queen Elizabeth is one of Uganda’s premier wildlife destinations, famous for its diverse landscapes (from forests of acacia, open grasslands, and open river areas) each with abundant animal populations and birdlife. Here, elephants roam casually across the savannah, herds of buffalo, graceful Ugandan kob, waterbuck, and impalas graze peacefully. Predators like lions, leopards, and spotted hyenas are also present, though sightings require luck and patience!
However, this is the best place to see tree-climbing lions, which is a rare behavior only seen in a few places in Africa. Look up into the large acacia trees to see them lounging, with their limbs draped over the branches like something out of a Salvadore Dali painting.
While you’re looking up, you’ll see the rainbow of birds—over 600 species—with some of my favorites being the kingfishers and bee-eaters, and the elegant, crowned cranes. - Overnight in Queen Elizabeth. At this point in the trip it was time for a splurge with a stay at the Kyambura Gorge Lodge on the eastern edge of the park. The lodge includes eight cabins spread across the hillside with panoramic views of the gorge, savannah and mountains. A small welcoming pool is perfect for an afternoon dip. The rooms are large and soothing, with netting-draped beds and private bathrooms. Guests settled in then were greeted by Ugandan craft beers and a selection of wines in the main hall as everyone gathered to enjoy the sunset and settle in for dinner.
- Drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park. This is a 4-5 hour drive back out of the mountains that starts early in the morning. The roads change from windy and bumpy to dirt to eventually paved and straight the closer you get to Queen Elizabeth. Along the way, the view also ranges from the mountains to the farmland, with terraced hillsides, plantations for bananas and tea, and a few small villages. We took a stop at the “Mountains of the Moon” panoramic viewpoint over the Rwenzori Mountains, and a stop at a roadside market for fuel and snacks.
Day 9: Queen Elizabeth National Park (Kazinga Channel):
- But first, coffee 🙂—there are few things to match the enjoyment of starting the day sipping a cup of coffee harvested from the surrounding mountains along with fruit from the area while listening to the animals and birds coming to life outside your cabin.
- Morning Chimpanzee tracking in the Kyambura Gorge. The gorge is known locally as the “Valley of the Apes” and is home to an isolated population of wild chimps. Similar to Kimbale, expect an early morning departure into the misty forrest. The decent is steep, rugged, slippery and covered with vines. Monkeys swing through the lush vegetation and waves of butterflies seem to be everywhere. Even without a chimp sighting, the scenery was stunning. After an hour or so, we did get a peek at a small group of chimps high in the trees: grooming, feeding, and chattering loudly.
- After a chimpanzee trek, many travelers take a mid-day break followed by a boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel in the afternoon, but I took the opportunity for a coffee plantation tour instead. Uganda has two rainy seasons during the year, high altitudes, and a cool equatorial climate that benefits slow ripening—ideal for Robusto and Arabica beans. Coffee bushes are planted in neat rows, and the tour explains everything from planting to harvesting, roasting and brewing—and yes, even tasting! I watched (and tried my hand at!) pulping and drying the beans in the traditional Ugandan way, using simple wooden equipment.
- Overnight in Queen Elizabeth. Back at the Kyambura lodge, tonight I enjoyed dinner with some of the people that came in with me the night before and some who were just beginning their adventure here. The lodge is beautifully designed, with a contemporary yet rustic style, softly lit spaces, cozy seating areas, and expansive decks overlooking the dramatic Kyambura Gorge. As evening falls, candles are lit, creating a softly glowing, intimate ambiance that’s both elegant and welcoming. The guests all gather on the open verandas and the chatter and laughter fills the air and floats into the gorge.
The splurge was worth it here! Dinner at Kyambura Gorge Lodge was a fusion of fresh Ugandan produce and international cooking techniques. We started with a delicate sweet potato soup, perfectly spiced, accompanied by homemade bread baked daily at the lodge. For the main course, grilled Nile perch, served alongside seasonal veggies sourced from nearby farms, was presented in a casual yet lovely way. Bowls of traditional Ugandan staples like matoke (savory mashed bananas) and flavorful rice and potatoes were also passed around the communal table. A creamy passionfruit confection followed for dessert. After dinner, stories of everyone’s adventures were shared around the outdoor fire pit.
Day 10: Queen Elizabeth to Entebbe (Internal Flight):
- Morning Game drive. Be ready before sunrise as this game drive will have you in the middle of the savannah in time to see the animals at their most active. Within moments of driving out onto the plains, you’ll find elephants grazing calmly, herds of buffalo, Uganda kob and waterbuck wandering through tall grasses, and warthogs trotting comically across the paths. The vastness of the landscape makes wildlife spotting easy and rewarding, especially with knowledgeable local guides pointing out animals and birds you’d easily miss on your own. If your drive includes the Ishasha sector of the park, keep an eye out for those lazy lions sunning themselves in the trees and gazing down at you with sleepy indifference.
- Coffee plantation tour. So much heart, soul and community goes into making the coffee here! Let’s hope you still have a coffee-bean bag-sized space left in your bag for some of the brown gold they roast here.
- Afternoon Internal flight from Mweya airstrip to Entebbe. Mweya airport is conveniently located inside the park, and the flight is under 90 minutes to Entebbe.
- Connect to your homeward flight at Entebbe International Airport.
Challenges and Considerations
- Long Drive Times: Uganda’s roads can be challenging, and drive times can be longer than anticipated due to traffic, road conditions, and unexpected delays. For example, the drive from Lake Mburo to Bwindi and from Murchison Falls to Kibale are very long drives (6-8 hours each; longer on public transportation). Uganda’s road network includes a mix of paved and unpaved roads. The condition of these roads can significantly impact travel speed (and the shock absorbers on your vehicle will become your best friend after a few hours). It’s important to understand that this is a full-day travel experience. Oh, and expect mother nature to provide the “air conditioning” in your vehicle. On the plus side, these routes pass through scenic areas, including towns, villages, and areas with tea plantations, which can make the journey interesting. Many tour operators factor in this long drive day into their itineraries, and often break up the trip with stops along the way. It is very important to use a reputable tour operator, and driver, when undertaking drives of this length.
Utilizing Internal flights between Entebbe and Murchison Falls, and Queen Elizabeth and Entebbe, significantly reduces long drive times. You may also want to consider the carbon footprint of travel methods—a short flight creates fewer carbon emissions than a long drives in a diesel 4×4 (or so I was told by a guide).
- Activity Timing: Gorilla and chimpanzee trekking can take several hours, depending on the location of the primates. It goes without saying that they are not just waiting at the gate to say hello, and it may take a while before you get a glimpse (if at all). Game drives and boat cruises also require dedicated time and they depart/return at set times during the day, which can impact other things you need to schedule. Guides are required for any chimpanzee, or gorilla trek and any game drive or boat tour, and they are very good at keeping things on schedule. If they say you can plan two activities in a day, you can.
- Fatigue: Frequent long drives or multiple back-to-back trek days can lead to fatigue, which can detract from the overall travel experience. Looking back, I think I would have made the pacing of this trip a bit more relaxing by allowing for more time between some destinations, and perhaps a day or two without any activities planned. Adding an extra night in Bwindi or Murchison Falls would have helped.
Recommendations: I definitely recommend taking some domestic flights to avoid long drive days if you are limited on time. NOTE: Internal flight schedules can vary, so flexibility is essential. You’ll also want to balance your activities. There is a lot to see and do in Uganda. Plan an itinerary with a balance of wildlife encounters, cultural experiences, and scenic drives.
Important Notes:
- Flight Schedules: Internal flight schedules can vary, so flexibility is essential.
- Permit Booking: Gorilla and chimpanzee trekking permits must be booked well in advance. If you are going as part of a tour, they will manage this for you. If not, go HERE for all the visa and travel requirements for Uganda.
- Drive Durations: Even with the internal flights, be prepared for some long drives.
- Flexibility: Be prepared for some changes in plans.
- Health: Consult your doctor about required vaccinations and malaria prevention.
- Weather: Uganda has a tropical climate. Pack for both rain and sunshine.
- Cultural Sensitivity: Respect local customs and traditions.
- Safety: Uganda is generally safe for tourists, but exercise common sense precautions.
If you’re interested in my other African safaris, check out my articles on Kruger Park in South Africa and Serengeti Park in Tanzania.
If you’d like to read more about my adventures in Uganda, check out my other articles: