Day 1

From the airport, I found a taxi and gave the driver directions, but rather than placing me at the door of my accommodation, he dropped me at the gate of the medina, and I needed to navigate the maze to my riad from there—which was quite a trick.  The host had provided a map and thoughtfully had noted landmarks as the alleys in the Medina were not always marked.  The notes on the map had me smiling quizzically: turn right where the alley is painted blue”, “look for the fish shop with red curtain and turn left”, “3^rd yellow door after the brown door.  My suitcase rattled loudly over cobblestones, a clear sign that next time, a backpack would be more suitable for the Moroccan terrain, and after quite a few turns, circles, and questioning of locals—especially when I didn’t trust that I was turning at the right fish market with a red curtain as there was more than one—I found the unassuming 3^rd yellow door.  It opened into a magical space. 

Riads

My first home in Marrakesh was a picturesque riad nestled within the Medina. I need to pause for a moment to fully describe the Moroccan riad as I was amazed and enchanted by what I found on the other side of simple doors throughout Morocco.  The word “riad” comes from the Arabian term for garden, “ryad.” These structures are characterized by their unique design, which focuses on privacy and inward reflection, a feature that is deeply rooted in Islamic architectural tradition. This design is both practical and symbolic, reflecting a way of life that emphasizes family, tranquility, and an inward focus away from the bustling city streets.

Structure and Design

The central courtyard, typically filled with the sound of gently trickling water and scented with jasmine, served as a communal space for guests and family alike, reflecting the Moroccan value of community. This architectural feature not only facilitated privacy but also helped regulate the temperature, keeping the interiors cool during the sweltering days. This was an oasis in the heart of the medina.  A space filled with light and plants and water.  It was spectacularly peaceful.

The rooms of the riad aligned to the traditional layout, each accessed from the central courtyard.  The ground floor hosted common areas such as a lounge, dining room, and kitchen, while the upper floors are reserved for private bedrooms, with windows facing into the courtyard rather than the street. The rooftop was converted into two terraces, offering a space for relaxation with pillow-covered benches and rugs, with 360-degree views of the cityscape, minarets, and sunsets. Looking across the city I could see that rooftop sitting areas were a common feature—and they were often filled with people in the evenings.

Decor and Aesthetics

Riads are known for their detailed and ornate decor, which showcases the rich craftsmanship of Moroccan artisans. Intricate tile work (known as zellij), carved wood, and plasterwork were used throughout the house, along with vibrant rugs, cushions, lanterns, and pottery, which added even more color and texture to the architecture.

Cultural and Historical Significance

Historically, riads were built this way for several reasons. Privacy is a significant aspect of traditional Islamic and Moroccan culture. The inward-facing design of the riad allows for a private family life, protected from the outside world. Additionally, the design is practical for climate control; the thick walls and the central courtyard help to keep the interior cool in the hot Moroccan climate.

Riads were traditionally homes for the wealthy or noble families, but many have been restored and converted into hotels or guesthouses. This transformation allows travelers to experience authentic Moroccan architecture and hospitality, making riads a popular choice for accommodation among visitors to Marrakesh.  I would highly recommend a Riad over any hotel, not only for the unique beauty, but they also typically come with a cook on the premises who will make a delicious traditional breakfast and dinner as an option for your stay.  While I often couldn’t communicate with the cooks beyond a few words or gestures, they always provided a kind smile and delicious local food.  I hope they each knew how much I appreciated them and how they impacted my experience.

Jardin Majorelle:

My mornings in Marrakesh began on the rooftop, where I sipped sweet mint tea and listened to the city awaken, the call to prayer echoing melodically from minarets across the skyline.

I slowly eased into Marrakesh with a visit to the Jardin Majorelle, a botanical garden that offers visitors a unique and tranquil experience amidst the bustling city. Originally designed by the French painter Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s, the garden is known for its vibrant cobalt blue buildings, lush greenery, and diverse collection of plant species. The garden was lush with vibrant flora, the air cool and sweetly fragrant with jasmine, and the iconic cobalt blue accents of the villa vivid against the greenery. It was a painter’s dream, a serene paradise that once inspired French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé. In 1980, Saint Laurent and Bergé purchased the garden and restored it, ensuring its preservation for future generations. After Saint Laurent’s death, his ashes were scattered in the garden, further solidifying its connection to the iconic designer.

The garden is home to the Berber Museum, which showcases artifacts and exhibits related to Berber culture, providing insight into the indigenous people of North Africa. Additionally, the garden houses the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakesh, displaying a stunning collection of Islamic art and artifacts.

Architecturally, the garden features several noteworthy structures, including the Art Deco villa that once belonged to Jacques Majorelle, as well as pavilions, fountains, and pathways adorned with intricate tilework and decorative elements. The vibrant blue color of the buildings, known as “Majorelle Blue,” has become synonymous with the garden and is a popular subject for photographers and artists.

Bahia Palace & Mouassine Fountain

It takes about a half-hour’s stroll from the lush serenity of the Jardin Majorelle to reach the Bahia Palace. The walk itself is a passage through the pulsating heart of Marrakesh, filled with small details of everyday life.

As you meander through the streets, you’ll encounter the Bab Doukkala Mosque, its minaret a soaring example of the intricate beauty of Islamic design. The neighborhood around the mosque buzzes with the vibrant, chaotic rhythm of market life—local cafes spill the scent of freshly brewed coffee into the air and shops burst with a kaleidoscope of traditional handicrafts, and their even more colorful shopkeepers.

A detour brings you to the hidden Mouassine Fountain, once a lifeline to the city’s residents and now a quiet relic tucked away behind a residence. It was found buried behind layers of white plaster in a private residence next door to the great 16th century Mouassine mosque built when the Saadian dynasty made Marrakech their imperial capital. It’s a poignant reminder of the layers of history that underpin the city, hidden just beneath the surface of everyday life.

From the fountain ruins, I wandered to and through the expansive courtyards of Bahia Palace, my fingertips brushing against ornate tiles that were cool to the touch even in the afternoon sun. The rhythmic splash of fountains and the extravagant 19th century palace’s airy grandeur helped also provide a welcome cooling effect.

Jemaa el-Fnaa Night Market

As dusk fell, I ventured into the heart of Marrakesh, the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. By night, the square transforms into a carnival of sounds and smells—the stalls, henna artists and snake tamers (yes, snake tamers!) from the daytime are replaced by food vendors and tables for the night market.  Close your eyes and just listen: drum beats and melodic strains of oud music fill the air, blending with the cries of vendors and the sizzle of meats grilling over open flames. The cacophony of voices, laughter, and chatter adds to the lively ambiance. Aromatic clouds of smoke waft through the air as vendors grill skewers of meat over open flames. The scent of spices, herbs, and freshly baked bread mingles with the earthy aroma of Moroccan tagines simmering in clay pots. This is the place to taste everything from tangy tajine to sweet, sticky dates, each flavor bold and memorable.

A note on Food:

I absolutely love Moroccan cuisine, particularly the street food, unmarked small cafés, and the Night Market, although you’ll find many of these dishes in high-end resort restaurants as well.  Don’t miss trying traditional Moroccan dishes such as:

Hydration: Marrakesh can be very hot, especially in summer. Stay hydrated by drinking bottled water, fresh squeezed juices, or juice smoothies (readily available at stalls throughout the medina), or the delicious mint tea.

Tagine: a slow-cooked stew made in a conical clay pot.  It can contain a variety of ingredients including lamb, chicken, vegetables, and a rich mix of spices, often enhanced with dried fruits like apricots or raisins and eaten with a piece of bread instead of cutlery.

Couscous: Often referred to as the national dish alongside tagine, couscous is steamed balls of semolina usually served with a stew spooned over it. At night markets, it might be served with vegetables, chicken, or lamb, seasoned with a fragrant broth.

Pastilla: Originally a pie from Fes, this flaky pastry is often filled with pigeon or chicken and a mixture of almonds, eggs, and a dust of sugar and cinnamon. It’s a savory-sweet delight that reflects the complexity of Moroccan cuisine. And it is superb.

Snail Soup: A more adventurous choice, snail soup is a popular street food in Morocco, believed to have medicinal properties. The snails are cooked in a broth full of spices and herbs, and it’s consumed hot from market stalls.

Brochettes (Kebabs): Grilled meat skewers, known locally as brochettes, are a common sight at any Moroccan night market. They can be made from beef, lamb, or chicken, marinated in spices, and grilled over an open flame.

Harira: This hearty soup is particularly popular during Ramadan but can also be found in night markets. Made from tomatoes, lentils, chickpeas, and meat, harira is spiced with ginger and cinnamon and often served with a squeeze of lemon juice and some dates.

B’ssara: A rich soup made from dried broad beans, B’ssara is typically enjoyed in the morning but can also be a warming treat during a cool evening at a night market. It’s usually garnished with a swirl of olive oil and a sprinkle of cumin.

Makouda: These are small, deep-fried potato balls, often served as a snack or a side dish. Makouda is sometimes stuffed into bread with spicy sauce to make a filling sandwich.

Sfenj: A type of Moroccan doughnut, sfenj is light and spongy, made from unsweetened yeast dough and deep-fried until golden. Typically, these are dusted with sugar or soaked in honey.

Mint Tea: No night at a Moroccan market (or day of any sort) would be complete without a glass of hot mint tea, also known as Moroccan whiskey (just without the alcohol). It’s sweet and heavily loaded with fresh mint, served with a long pour into small glasses. Pouring from a height aerates the tea, which helps to develop a richer flavor and creates a characteristic frothy top on the surface of the drink. The height from which the tea is poured can be quite impressive, often several feet.

Day 2

Ben Youssef Madrasa

The next day, I found tranquility at Ben Youssef Madrasa, a sanctuary of profound historical and architectural beauty. The madrasa, a marvel of Islamic architecture, captivated me with its quiet grandeur and intricate designs that speak of centuries devoted to scholarly excellence. This is one of the most iconic historical and architectural landmarks in Morocco, renowned for its exquisite Islamic architecture and rich cultural significance.  I can get lost among the harmonious blend of Islamic geometric patterns in the tiles and Andalusian decorative elements for hours (and I did). 

Historically, the Ben Youssef Madrasa served as an Islamic college, named after Sultan Ali ibn Yusuf, who commissioned its construction in the 14th century. Over the centuries, it became one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa, attracting scholars and students from across the region. The madrasa played a crucial role in the intellectual and religious life of Marrakech, fostering the study of Islamic law, theology, and philosophy.

The architectural grace of the madrasa reflects the artistic zenith of the Marinid dynasty, celebrated patrons of Islamic art. The madrasa’s design reflects the intricate geometric patterns, ornate stucco work, and vibrant tilework characteristic of Moroccan architecture. Its central courtyard, surrounded by elaborately carved cedar wood doors and marble columns, exemplifies the beauty and craftsmanship of Islamic design.

Maison de la Photographie

Not far from the Ben Youssef Madrasa, my cultural journey continued at the Maison de la Photographie.  This photography museum is housed in an airy riad with stark white walls as a background to the stark black and white photography on exhibit, all protected from the sunlight by white linen curtains. The gallery was quiet, the soft shuffle of visitors’ feet and the occasional murmur of appreciation for the art the only sounds breaking the silence. The permanent collection features a well-curated set of photos from the 1870’s to 1960’s, and rotating displays showcase more contemporary photographers.  There are three stories in this Riad/museum, and a lovely rooftop café from where you can see the medina below and the snow-capped Atlas mountains in the distance.  It’s definitely worth the visit. As a side note, one of the things I loved about this museum is the placards for each piece were written in Arabic, French, and English.  http://www.maisondelaphotographie.ma.

Koutoubia Mosque

I wandered back towards the towering Koutoubia Mosque, one of the most significant and iconic landmarks in the city. Constructed during the reign of the Almohad dynasty in the late 12th century, the Koutoubia Mosque is deeply intertwined with the history and identity of Marrakech. Its name, “Koutoubia,” is derived from the Arabic word “kutubiyyin,” meaning bookseller, as it was originally surrounded by book markets in the area.

Though I couldn’t enter, I walked its perimeter, admiring the architecture as children played and locals relaxed in its shade.

Architecturally, the Koutoubia Mosque is celebrated for its stunning design, which exemplifies the principles of Moorish and Andalusian architecture. The mosque’s towering minaret, standing at over 77 meters (253 feet) tall, dominates the city skyline and is adorned with intricate geometric patterns, carved stucco, and ornate arches. Its distinctive silhouette has inspired countless artists and architects over the centuries, making it a symbol of Morocco’s architectural heritage. The minaret is decorated with intricate carvings and is topped with a copper globe and crescent moon.

Religiously, the Koutoubia Mosque holds immense significance as one of the largest and most important mosques in Morocco. It serves as a place of worship for the local Muslim community and attracts pilgrims and visitors from around the world. The mosque’s prayer hall can accommodate thousands of worshippers during Friday prayers and religious festivals.

El Badi Palace

While circling the Koutoubia Mosque I spoke with another traveler who had just come from the ruins of the El Badi Palace, and decided to make a stop there before the day ended.

El Badi Palace, or the “Incomparable Palace,” was the brainchild of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur of the Saadian dynasty, conceived in the late 16th century. Construction kicked off in 1578 and spanned a quarter of a century, aiming to create a residence that mirrored the Sultan’s immense wealth and power. Throughout the Saadian era, it played host to a myriad of ceremonial and administrative spectacles. Today, its imposing walls—adorned with ornate plasterwork and ceramic tiles—still stand tall, reaching up to 25 meters, and occasionally serving as perches for storks.

Now largely a skeleton of its former glory, the architecture of El Badi Palace remains a memorial to grand ambitions. The ruins hint at the complex’s original magnificence, with remnants of pavilions, courtyards, and lush gardens, all once festooned with the finest of plaster and tile decorations. The main courtyard, known as the Court of Honor, was particularly striking, featuring a vast reflecting pool and a central pavilion, its marble columns and detailed tilework offering a glimpse into a past where luxury and power dictated design.

Day 3

The Medina

I spent my last day losing myself in the souks of the Medina, with its maze-like alleyways lined with centuries-old buildings adorned with intricate tilework, carved wooden doors, and ornate wrought-iron balconies.  Overhead is a latticed “roof” to keep out the blazing sun.  Culturally, the medina is a melting pot of Moroccan traditions, where ancient customs and modern life collide. You’ll encounter locals going about their daily routines, artisans sitting in their stalls practicing age-old crafts like shoe repair, weaving and almond oil pressing, and vendors selling everything from spices and textiles to ceramics and leather goods. The air is alive with the sounds of bargaining, children playing, the clatter of donkey carts, locals socializing, and the call to prayer echoing from nearby mosques.

This ancient walled section of Marrakech has been a center of trade and culture for centuries, serving as a crossroads for travelers, merchants, and scholars from across the globe. The buildings press close on either side, their walls painted in shades of ochre and terracotta.  Now and then an alley will pop you out into the iconic Jemaa el-Fnaa square, or to the imposing walls of the Marrakech Museum. You find yourself drawn into the vibrant souks, where stalls overflow with colorful textiles, shimmering lanterns, and intricately crafted ceramics (of which I brought home quite a few colorful bowls and serving platters).

But perhaps the most memorable aspect of visiting the medina is the sensory experience it offers. The air is filled with the scent of exotic spices, freshly baked bread, and aromatic tagines simmering over open flames. You’ll catch whiffs of incense wafting from doorways and the earthy aroma of leather. Every turn brings a new culinary delight, from sweet pastries and savory snacks to refreshing mint tea and mixed fruit smoothies (these are not to be missed!).

As I sat on the rooftop of my riad later, with slightly cooler air forming an ever-so-slight breeze, I reflected on my journey, sipped some mint tea, and enjoyed the view of the lights from the other riads around me.  I had enjoyed my time here and tomorrow would be off to the Sahara dessert.

Solo Female Traveler Tips:

Traveling to Marrakesh as a solo female traveler can be an enriching experience, full of vibrant culture, stunning architecture, and unique landscapes. However, navigating a new country alone, especially one with a culture (and possibly language) very different from your own, requires some preparation and awareness. Here are some important tips to consider:

1. Dress Conservatively: Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country, and while Marrakesh is a major tourist hub with somewhat relaxed norms, dressing conservatively is still advised to respect local culture and avoid unwanted attention. Opt for loose-fitting clothes that cover your shoulders and knees. A lightweight scarf is also useful for covering your head when visiting religious sites or to protect yourself from the sun. Please don’t look like one of the “Instagram influencers” walking through the medina in short shorts and a tank top.  Even while “tolerated” in areas where tourists flock, it really is quite disrespectful to the locals.
2. Respect Holy Sites: Be particularly mindful and respectful when visiting religious sites; dress conservatively, keep noise to a minimum, and follow any posted guidelines.
3. Accommodation: Stay in reputable areas known for safety and convenience. Many female solo travelers prefer staying in riads (traditional Moroccan houses with interior gardens) within the Medina (old town) because they offer a secure and authentic experience.
   • Riads: I love and recommend staying in a riad for a genuine Moroccan experience. Many riads offer modern comforts with traditional Moroccan architecture and meals. 
   • Hotels: There are also excellent hotels such as the Mamounia Hotel, Four Seasons Resort, and Hotel La Maison Arabe which are all spectacular 5-star choices.  You can enjoy a nice meal at any of these as well, even if you are not staying as a guest.
   • Location: Choose accommodation within or close to the Medina for easy access to major sights and the real atmosphere of Marrakesh.
   • Reviews: Ensure your accommodation has good reviews, particularly regarding staff helpfulness and security. Specifically, look for reviews from female solo travelers.
4. Navigating the City: Marrakesh’s Medina is a tangle of narrow, winding streets. It’s easy to get lost, so a good downloaded map or a GPS app on your smartphone can be invaluable.
   • If you accept help from locals offering to guide you, they may expect a tip in return or might lead you to shops where they get commissions.   This is part of normal custom that you should be prepared for.    
   • I will often take a photo of major landmarks near my accommodation that I can show to someone to help guide me back there.  I’ve also taken photos of each turn through the medina to get to my riad so as to not get lost when returning.  It is easy to get lost, especially when there is little signage (or little that isn’t in Arabic).
5. Transport: Use registered taxis for longer distances, especially at night. Ensure the taxi meter is on or agree on a fare before you start your journey to avoid being overcharged. While there is no Uber or Lyft in the city, there is the ride-share app Careem which works in a similar way.  For day-to-day travel, walking is an excellent way to explore the city, but always be mindful of your surroundings.
6. Social Interactions: While many Moroccans are hospitable and friendly, solo female travelers should be cautious about invitations from strangers. It’s not uncommon to receive friendly offers to visit shops or have tea, but these can sometimes lead to uncomfortable situations or high-pressure sales tactics. If you want to say “no”, do it kindly but firmly, and you will rarely have any issues.
7. Cultural Sensitivity: Respect local customs and traditions to avoid offending local sensibilities. Public displays of affection are not acceptable, and during Ramadan, eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours should be avoided.
8. A Note About Tea: The pouring of tea in Morocco is a skill and an important social ritual. The host, who traditionally might be the head of the household, takes great pride in pouring the tea with elegance and skill. Serving tea is also a sign of respect, hospitality, and generosity. It is commonly offered to guests upon arrival, and to refuse it is considered impolite.  Shopkeepers will often offer tea, particularly if you linger in a store for a while.  Accepting it is not a requirement to buy anything, but, of course, doing so is appreciated.
9. Language: Moroccan Arabic is the official language, and French is widely spoken. Moroccan Arabic, also known as Darija, is quite distinct from the Arabic spoken in other parts of the Middle East and can be challenging for speakers of other Arabic dialects to understand.  Learning a few basic phrases in Arabic or French can go a long way in enhancing your interactions with locals. English is commonly spoken in tourist areas.
10. WiFi: WiFi is extremely limited, although it is getting better.  Do not expect that wifi will work when you need/want it to. Download maps for offline use before arriving in the city and wandering out.
11. Safety: Keep your belongings secure and be wary of pickpockets, especially in crowded places like markets. It’s wise to have a copy of your passport and other important documents kept separately from the originals, and don’t carry all your cash in one place.
12. Tipping: Tipping is customary in Morocco. Small tips for services at cafes, restaurants, and taxis are appreciated and are a part of the local culture.
    • Restaurants: A tip of 10-15% is customary if service charge is not included.
    • Taxis: Round up to the nearest 5 or 10 dirhams for taxi drivers.
    • Small Services: For small services like luggage handling or guidance, a small tip (5-20 dirhams) is appreciated.
13. Shopping: Marrakesh is famous for its souks (markets), where you can find everything from spices to leather goods.
14. Bargaining: Bargaining is part of the culture in the souks. It’s expected that you will negotiate on price, often starting at about half the initial asking price.
15. Quality and Authenticity: Be cautious of faux antiques and counterfeit items, especially in high-tourist areas. Purchasing from reputable stores or government-approved shops can ensure authenticity.
16. Souvenirs: Popular souvenirs include Moroccan spices, argan oil, ceramics, tagine pots, leather goods, lamps, textiles, and carpets.  NOTE: camel leather can have a stronger scent than cow or lambskin.  This musky scent can transfer to your clothing when using it (like when wearing a belt or purse), or when packed in your suitcase.
17. Connecting with Other Travelers: Joining group tours or using social apps geared towards travelers can enrich your experience and provide company during parts of your journey.

By keeping these tips in mind, you’ll be better prepared to enjoy all that Marrakesh has to offer while staying safe and respectful of Moroccan culture. Have a great trip! More to come on adventures in the Sahara.

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