Join me for three great days in Cairo!

Day One: The Egyptian Museum, tea and the bazaar:

On my first morning, I met Ahmed, my guide, whose love for Cairo’s storied past and general energy was infectious (how did he stay so boisterous in the heat?). The day was hazy and blisteringly hot and the small group of other English-speaking visitors were getting feisty.  He led us to the National Egyptian Museum, where the air was cool and musty, and the rooms filled with the treasures of history, from glittering gold artifacts (here is where you will find Tutankhamun’s iconic death mask if you missed it when it had its world tour) to eerily serene mummies, and small pieces of life across the centuries quietly displayed in glass cases. After that excursion, and a stop for some iced mint tea, everyone was enjoying themselves again.

FUN FACT: Beneath modern Cairo lie the remnants of the cities that were the capitals before it, such as Fustat, the first Arab capital in Egypt. Archaeologists have found many artifacts and remnants of these ancient cities beneath today’s bustling metropolis, literally making Cairo a city built upon layers of history.

Later, we dove into the vibrant chaos of Khan El Khalili bazaar. The alleys buzzed with energy from the crowds, and the air was thick with the aroma of roasting coffee and cardamom. This is where I had my first victorious foray into negotiation, cheered on by Ahmed’s playful coaching, for the prize of a handcrafted silver necklace.  This was followed by an evening food tour through downtown Cairo to sample delicious local street food as well as hearty Egyptian classic dishes. To say that I was both full and exhausted at the end of the night was an understatement, but it was a great way to beat the jet lag and sleep like a rock.

FUN FACT: Cairo is the largest city in Africa. With a population clocking in at a whopping 21,750,020, The Greater Cairo Area is the largest metropolitan area in Egypt, the largest urban area in Africa, the Middle East, and the Arab world. It is the sixth-largest metropolitan area in the world. Not only that, but it also has one of the densest populations in the world. The megacity has 19,376 people per square kilometer, which makes it the world’s 37th most densely populated city.

Day Two: Pyramids of Giza

This was the day I had been waiting for—our visit to the Pyramids. We started with a visit to the Bent Pyramid at Dahshur, one of the earliest examples of pyramid architecture, before working our way back to Cairo, visiting the stepped pyramid of Saqqara and the behemoths at Giza. We started in the relative cool of early morning, the giant structures emerging majestically against the brightening sky. 

The regal and enigmatic gaze of the Sphinx left me in silent awe. I did not ride a camel across the iconic Giza plateau for a view back at the pyramids, but those who did said it was a memorable experience.

That evening, we enjoyed a traditional Egyptian dinner on a short Nile cruise; a balmy breeze carrying the mingled scents of grilled lamb and cumin across the deck while reflections of Cairo’s twinkling lights danced in the river.  It was quite magical even if I was surrounded by a bunch of overzealous tourists.   Later trips would allow time for a longer cruise down the Nile to see Luxor, Karnak, Idfu and Aswan—an experience definitely worth adding to your itinerary. 

TIP: If you continue on to Aswan, don’t miss the opportunity for a side day trip to Abu Simbel (about a 3 hour drive from Aswan), where the four seated gigantic statues of Ramses II will greet you.

FUN FACT: The Great Pyramid is the oldest and largest of the three pyramids in the Giza pyramid complex and is the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World that still exists today.

Day three: Citadel of Salah El Din & The Hanging Church

On my final day, the Citadel of Salah El Din offered panoramic views of sprawling Cairo below, bathed in the harsh midday sun. The Ottoman-style Mosque of Muhammad Ali, with its shining alabaster walls, stood brilliantly under the bright sun, while the shade of the porticos in the entry square around the cleansing fountain was a welcome respite.

FUN FACT: City of a Thousand Minarets: Cairo is often called the “City of a Thousand Minarets” because of its many beautifully adorned mosques. This nickname reflects the city’s important historical and ongoing role in the Islamic world. The skyline of Cairo, with its numerous minarets rising up, offers a spectacular view, particularly at sunset.

Next, I walked through Coptic Cairo to the Church of the Virgin Mary, better known as the Hanging Church, to see how it was constructed. It is built on top of the southern entrance gate of the Babylon Fortress and gets its name from the fact that its nave is suspended above a corridor. This unique location gives the church the impression of being suspended in midair—a spectacle that would have been even more impressive when it was first built when the ground level was several meters lower than it is today. The Arabic name of the church, al-Muallaqah, is also roughly translated as “The Suspended.”  It was definitely worth the visit.

Visiting Cairo Today

Visiting Cairo today offers a blend of bustling city life and ancient history, enveloped in a unique Middle Eastern culture. The city’s atmosphere is lively and dynamic, marked by a world-class culinary scene that features everything from traditional Egyptian dishes to international fusion cuisine. The locals are generally welcoming to tourists, appreciating the interest and investment they bring to the economy.

FUN FACT: Al-Azhar University, located in Cairo, is considered the oldest university in the world still in operation. Founded in 970 AD as a madrasa, it is now one of the leading theological centers of the Sunni Muslim world and offers a variety of academic programs in theological and secular subjects.

Get your senses prepped for overwhelm:

From a sensory perspective, Cairo is a feast for the senses. The streets are filled with the sounds of bustling traffic and lively conversations. The air carries the aroma of spices and freshly cooked street food, particularly in areas like Downtown Cairo where you can experience authentic Egyptian street food. The city can be quite warm, especially in the summer months, so it’s a good idea to dress in light, breathable clothing.

Local & Tourists:

The mood among the locals is one of resilience and pride, especially in their rich cultural heritage. However, like any big city, it has its complexities, including traffic congestion and the hustle of everyday life which can sometimes be overwhelming for visitors.

Tourists are generally received positively, with many Egyptians eager to share their culture and history. However, it’s important to respect local customs and traditions, such as dressing modestly and being mindful of cultural sensitivities.

Navigating the City:

Navigating Cairo can be challenging due to traffic, but the city has a good public transport system, including a metro, buses, and minibusses. Ridesharing apps like Uber and Careem are also popular and offer an affordable and convenient way to get around.

FUN FACT: The City of the Dead in Cairo is a 4-mile-long cemetery that is unique because it not only serves as the final resting place for many Egyptians but also as a residential area where people live among the tombs. These multi-functional spaces serve as both tombs and homes, born from necessity due to Cairo’s dense population and housing shortage.

For a peaceful escape from the urban buzz, the Nile Corniche offers a scenic walking area. Whether you’re looking to enjoy a leisurely coffee with a view or get some exercise, this area provides a calm respite from the city’s frenetic pace.  I personally loved the Nile Terrace. Located at the Semiramis InterContinental along Corniche El Nil, this café offers a luxurious experience with stunning views of the Nile River. It’s a great spot to enjoy a cup of coffee while taking in the scenic beauty of the Nile.

Tips for Solo Travelers:

Traveling solo as a woman in Egypt is an enriching experience, offering insights into one of the world’s oldest civilizations and its incredible historical treasures.  As a history and architecture enthusiast, I thoroughly enjoyed my time there and hope to return.  However, it’s crucial to prepare adequately and understand the local customs to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip. Here are some essential tips for solo female travelers heading to Egypt:

1. Dress Conservatively: Egyptian culture is conservative, especially in non-tourist areas. To respect local customs and minimize unwanted attention, dress modestly. Cover your shoulders, chest, and knees. Loose, flowing garments like long skirts or pants paired with long-sleeved tops are ideal.  Loose cotton or linen is ideal, offering breathability and good sun protection. I’d recommend two pairs of comfortable shoes, such as a pair of sandals and a slip-on flat or sneakers (with merino socks for breathability). While a headscarf is not required in most places, you may find that one does give extra sun protection, and you will need one if you choose to enter a mosque.
2. Group Tours: Consider joining small group tours, especially for visiting major tourist sites like the Pyramids of Giza, Luxor, and Aswan. Not only does this provide added security, but it also offers a chance to meet other travelers.  Avoid large groups where you’re herded from one point to another following someone with a flag.  Hearing the speaker is limited, as is the chance for interaction and questions.
3. Hire Reputable Guides: If you prefer a more personalized experience, hire a guide through a reputable company. This can enhance your understanding of the sites and ensure you have support navigating the local area.
4. Stay Vigilant: While Egypt is generally safe for tourists, it’s important to stay aware of your surroundings. Avoid isolated areas, especially after dark, and keep your belongings secure.
5. Local SIM Card: Get a local SIM card for your phone for easy communication and access to maps and emergency services. This can be invaluable for navigating, booking rides, or handling unexpected situations.
6. Cultural Sensitivity: Be aware of the cultural norms, such as not displaying affection in public and not taking photographs of people without their permission. Showing respect for local customs will enrich your interactions and experiences.
7. Transport: Use reputable taxi companies or ride-sharing apps like Uber, which are safer and can prevent haggling over fares. Always agree on the fare before starting your journey if you use traditional taxis.
8. Avoid Public Displays of Affection: Public displays of affection are not well-received in conservative cultures like Egypt’s. This includes kissing, hugging, and holding hands.  Keeping this in mind helps avoid any cultural faux pas.
9. Language: Learning a few basic phrases in Arabic can go a long way in showing respect and might help in daily interactions. Simple greetings or phrases of gratitude can make a difference.
10. Travel Insurance: Always travel with comprehensive insurance that covers health, accidents, and theft. This is crucial for all travelers but especially for those traveling solo.
11. Stay Informed: Keep up-to-date with travel advisories from your government and changes in local laws or customs that might affect your visit.

Following these guidelines can help ensure that your visit to Egypt is as enjoyable and safe as possible, letting you focus on the rich history and vibrant culture of this unique country.

To enhance your trip, here are some practical tips covering dining, tipping, shopping, accommodation, and visiting attractions:

Dining

1. Local Cuisine: Don’t miss out on traditional Egyptian dishes like koshari (a mix of rice, pasta, lentils, and tomato sauce), ful medames (mashed fava beans), and falafel. Egyptian desserts like baklava and kunafa are also a must-try.
2. Drinking Water: Stick to bottled water to avoid stomach upsets. This is readily available and inexpensive.
3. Street Food: While it’s a great way to dive into local cuisine, choose busy stalls where high turnover means the food is likely fresher.  The locals will always know where the best vendors are—don’t be afraid to ask for a recommendation.

Tipping

1. Baksheesh (Tip): Tipping is a common practice in Egypt for nearly every service. Keep small change handy for tipping guides, drivers, restaurant staff, and even bathroom attendants.
2. How Much to Tip: The amount varies; however, for good service in a restaurant, 10-15% is customary if a service charge isn’t included in the bill.

Shopping

1. Bargaining: Haggling is part of the shopping culture, especially in markets and bazaars like Khan El Khalili in Cairo. Start by offering half the asking price and negotiate from there.
2. Quality and Authenticity: Be cautious when buying high-value items like jewelry or papyrus; shop at reputable stores to ensure authenticity.

Accommodation

Egypt offers a wide range of accommodations, from luxurious Nile cruises and 5-star hotels to budget hostels. Booking in advance can secure better rates, especially during peak tourist seasons. It’s wise to choose a location that provides easy access to the sites you plan to visit, as this can significantly cut down on travel time in a city known for its heavy traffic. Areas like Giza are great for history enthusiasts who want to stay close to the Pyramids, while neighborhoods like Zamalek offer more upscale dining and shopping options.  Of course, the closer you are to the “action” the higher the price tends to be.  

In Cairo, I had a night at the Marriott Mena House which directly overlooks the pyramids and felt this was worth the splurge.  From later trips, I loved The Moudira, a gorgeous hotel on the West Bank of the Nile in Luxor.  Each room has soaring ceilings and is individually decorated with stunning traditional décor.  The service and facilities were top notch. 

Visiting Major Attractions

1. Timing: Visit popular sites like the Pyramids of Giza early in the morning to avoid crowds and the blistering midday heat.
2. Guided Tours: Consider booking guided tours for complex sites such as historical ruins to enhance your understanding and experience.
3. Dress Appropriately: Wear modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and a scarf to cover your head and hair if visiting a mosque. Bring a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses to protect against the sun when outdoors.

Lesser-Known Sites

1. Siwa Oasis: For a less touristy experience, visit this beautiful oasis in the Western Desert—about 560 km from Cairo.  Known for its stunning natural beauty and distinct culture, Siwa Oasis is an isolated paradise that offers visitors a glimpse into a slower, more traditional way of life. The people of Siwa, known as Siwans, have their own language (Siwi) and a rich cultural heritage that sets them apart from the rest of Egypt. The oasis is dotted with cool, refreshing natural springs, perfect for escaping the desert heat. The most famous is Cleopatra’s Bath, a natural spring believed to have been used by Queen Cleopatra herself. Siwa is also home to the ancient Temple of the Oracle where Alexander the Great was confirmed as the son of Zeus.

Getting there:

To get to the Oasis from Cairo is about a nine-hour drive.  I took a bus to Marsa Matruh, a city on the Mediterranean coast, and then caught a connecting bus to Siwa. This breaks up the long journey and allows you to explore another interesting part of Egypt, and a bit more of the culture, along the way. You can also rent a car and drive, or join a tour.  Joining an organized tour can be an excellent choice for those who prefer not to navigate the logistics of Egyptian road travel (and be in the A/C of a mini-van). Tours often include transport from Cairo to Siwa, along with accommodation and guided visits, providing a hassle-free way to explore Siwa and its surroundings.

2. Abydos Temple: One of the lesser-visited but historically rich temples, offering insights into ancient Egyptian beliefs and hieroglyphs. Located in Upper Egypt in the town of Sohag, Abydos is one of the oldest cities of ancient Egypt and was a significant pilgrimage site for the worship of the god Osiris. It is home to a collection of temples, with the Temple of Seti I being the most prominent and well-preserved among them. The temple’s walls are adorned with exquisite carvings that depict various gods and goddesses, as well as scenes from daily Egyptian life. At the back of the temple lies the Osireion, thought to be the symbolic tomb of Osiris. It features a unique, more archaic architectural style than the main temple and is set at a lower level, often flooded with water, which adds to its mystical appearance.

Getting there:

Traveling from Cairo to Abydos involves a journey through some of the country’s most historic regions. Egypt’s national railway operates several trains daily from Cairo to Sohag, which is the closest major city to Abydos. The journey can take approximately 6 to 8 hours depending on the type of service—express or regular. From Sohag, you can hire a taxi or a local minibus to reach Abydos, which is about 30 kilometers away.

Driving from Cairo to Abydos offers flexibility and the opportunity to enjoy the scenery along the Nile valley. The distance is roughly 400 kilometers, and the drive can take around 5 to 6 hours. The roads are generally in good condition, and the route is straightforward, following the Nile River much of the way. Renting a car or hiring a private driver for this trip is advisable if you prefer traveling at your own pace.

General Tips

1. Currency: The Egyptian pound (LE) is the local currency. ATMs are widely available in cities, and credit cards are accepted in hotels and larger shops.
2. Language: Arabic is the official language. English is widely spoken in tourist areas, making communication generally straightforward.
3. Cultural Respect: Egypt is predominantly Muslim; it is important to be respectful of local customs, especially during Ramadan.

One last tip from my travels:

Each evening, I retreated to a small café near the hotel where I sipped refreshing mint tea, journaled my notes from the day and watched the people passing by. This was a relaxing time to think while listening to the bustling sounds of the city winding down, the sounds of honking cars ever so slightly giving way to barely audible voices of people talking and laughing along the slowly quieting streets. A perfect way to end the day.

Happy travels!