Zion National Park – If you are where the Virgin River has sculpted canyons and sandstone cliffs that soar into the sky, inviting exploration via trails like Angels Landing, you must be at Zion National Park—one of the National Parks we will start exploring (or re-exploring) during this Covid-19 lockdown. If you’re anything like me, you’re already a bit stir-crazy and need a bit of time in the great outdoors. Grab your backpack and join me on my 4-day adventure (dog, spouse, partner, friend, or family optional 😊).
First, a little background on the park:
Nestled in the southwestern part of Utah, Zion is a jewel of the American Southwest that covers 229 square miles (590 sq km) of breathtaking landscapes. With Bryce Canyon National Park as its neighbor (we’ll head there next), Zion forms part of a duo of national parks often visited together. Situated at the convergence of the Colorado Plateau, the Great Basin, and the Mojave Desert, Zion National Park is home to a stunning variety of geographical features and ecosystems.
Its landscape is a captivating and colorful array of arches, buttes, canyons, mesas, monoliths, mountains, rivers, and the famed slot canyons, each carved and shaped by the relentless forces of nature over millennia.
The Canyon
The heart of Zion is the majestic Zion Canyon, carved by the Virgin River. It stretches for 15 miles (24 km), with walls reaching depths up to 2,640 feet (800 m). Meanwhile, the park’s elevation varies from 3,666 feet (1,117 m) to the peak of Horse Ranch Mountain at 8,726 feet (2,660 m), offering diverse habitats ranging from coniferous forests and desert landscapes to riparian areas and woodlands. This varied elevation supports a rich array of flora, including sagebrush, prickly pear cactus, Indian paintbrush, and towering trees like ponderosa pine and aspen, painting a vibrant picture of life that thrives in this rugged terrain.
Biodiversity
Zion’s biodiversity extends to its fauna as well, with 79 mammalian species—including 19 types of bats! It’s a protected haven for predators such as bobcats, cougars, and coyotes, as well as iconic predator birds like the golden eagle and the peregrine falcon, the latter known as the world’s fastest bird. Bighorn sheep and mule deer are among the park’s popular mammals, while the varied ecosystems support 28 species of reptiles.
As far as “bugs” go, keep an eye out for the Flame Skimmer—a beautiful, large, red-orange dragonfly that can be up to 8cm long. You’ll find these near the water. On the flip-side (at least for me), you’ll also find tarantulas. During the day they typically live in underground burrows, but as nocturnal creatures, they surface at night. Sightings are most common in the late summer along the park roads when males are out searching for females.
Hiking trails
Exploring Zion National Park offers an adventure with over 50 miles of paths winding through the diverse landscapes. The Narrows, a remarkable hike through the North Fork of the Virgin River, and the challenging ascents to Angels Landing and Kolob Arch, are some of the more popular trails that you’ll see in a few hundred Instagram posts. For those seeking thrills beyond hiking, Zion provides sheer cliffs for rock climbing, including Moonlight Buttress and Spaceshot.
Come join me on my adventure hiking through Zion Park in June
Angel’s Landing
I started early with the iconic hike to Angels Landing. The cool morning air was filled with the songs of birds, which fortunately drowned out my heavy breathing on the strenuous 5.4-mile round trip. This trail is known for its steep switchbacks, narrow pathways, breathtaking views and sheer drop-offs. At Scout Lookout, I paused, and time stalled a bit as I took in the stunning vistas of Zion Canyon below, a preview of the what was waiting at the summit. Reaching the top, one gets a full 360-degree view, a reward well worth the effort. While catching my breath and admiring the landscape below, I met a group of hikers from California, and we shared in the collective triumph over the ascent and formed a temporary camaraderie unique to the trails–and compared notes on good breakfast and dinner options in the area–always a plus!
Riverside Trail
Descending from Angels Landing in the late morning, my next journey led me to the Riverside Walk, a more leisurely path following the Virgin River. The contrast of the serene river against the imposing canyon walls offered a peaceful respite. Along this trail, I saw a few more hikers, and even a family enjoying their late breakfast by the riverbank, their laughter and excited conversation blending with the sounds of the flowing water. I paused in the area as well and enjoyed a snack.
The Narrows
By early afternoon, I ventured into the Narrows, where the walls of the canyon closed in, and the river became the trail. Wading through the cool water, I was mesmerized by the towering walls stretching up to the sky on both sides of me, casting shadows that danced on the river’s surface. There were a few more people hiking in front of me, but again, nature gently muffled their sounds. In this enchanting corridor, I met a seasoned photographer capturing the play of light on the textured rock faces. The colors were warm and inviting on the curved surfaces. NOTE: the weather can be unpredictable and flash floods can occur suddenly and unexpectedly in the Narrows, particularly in the monsoon season July-September. 
Emerald Pools
After emerging from the Narrows, I followed the path to the Emerald Pools—my final hike of this trip which I saved for last as it tends to get crowded mid-day. The trail meandered through lush vegetation, leading to pools of water cascading down the rocks, creating a tranquil oasis in the desert landscape. This is a perfect spot for a rest as the sun goes down, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. 
Zion Lodge
As dusk fell, I returned to the Zion Lodge, where I enjoyed a hearty meal at the Red Rock Grill, and chatted with some other hikers. As a side note, they mentioned that they took the East Mesa trail to Observation Point which they felt gave an even better view of the canyon than Angel’s Landing and was an easier, but longer, hike. As a tip, the trail is 7 miles long, but getting to the trailhead is another 3 miles down a rocky dirt road. Next time, I’ll check it out. To say I slept well that night was an understatement, but not before getting a glance up at the sky filled with stars. A perfect ending to the day.
A few things to know:
- There is a one-time recreational use fee of $35 per car to enter the park. If you are coming by foot (or shuttle from town), the fee is $20 per person or $30 per family.
- The park is open year-round. Summer/early fall are the peak months for visiting, however, temperatures can soar over 100 degrees in the middle of the day, so plan your treks for early or late in the day. The waterfalls are at their peak in the Spring—keep in mind that this means that the water is too high to hike the Narrows until June or July. In the fall, leaves start to change color and yellow cottonwoods add a glow to the landscape. Water gets cold, so wetsuits are recommended to cross through the Narrows. The winter months offer a rare opportunity to drive your own vehicle into the canyon as shuttle busses are not available, however, areas at higher elevations will be covered in snow and the road will be closed in those sections of the park. Hiking is still possible in a few sections of the park but ice and snow can make hiking dangerous.
- I’d recommend that first-time visitors should start by riding the Zion Shuttle from the Visitor Center. The shuttle buses take tourists up the main canyon, providing an audio tour introduction to the park and making several designated stops at scenic locations and trailheads. You can hop on and off for photos and exploration.
- Temperatures can climb to the high 90’s and past 100 degrees mid-day. Dress light (and in layers) and carry plenty of water.
- The parking area fills quickly near the visitor’s center. Get there early (it opens at 7AM) because if it fills up, you’ll need to go to Springdale and take the shuttle bus into the park.
- Get a wilderness permit if you plan to do any overnight backpacking, canyon climbing, or river thru-trips. Permits are also required to hike through the Narrows. These can be reserved up to 3 months in advance of your visit.
- I wasn’t camping on this trip, instead nabbing a last-minute opening at the Zion National Park Lodge, which is conveniently near the trailheads for the Grotto Trail and Emerald Pools which made for an easy end to my day after hiking the Emerald Pools last.
- I also did not have my dog on this adventure. Dogs are allowed in the park, but only on one trail. As the temperatures can soar, this is not a great environment for them as paws can burn quickly. Leashed pets are permitted in the campgrounds and picnic areas, but do not leave them unattended.
- Horseback rides are available in the park. Rides leave from the stable across for Zion Lodge.
- Cycling is not permitted on the trails, however, bicycles are permitted on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive.
- The town of Springdale, outside the park, is lovely and worth a visit. It’s a tiny town of about 500 full-time residents, a few cozy hotels (Flannigans and the Desert Pearl are both lovely), and there is quite a selection of nice restaurants and casual eateries. The Kings Landing Bistro and Anthera were delightful and delicious. I heard the Bit and Spur had amazing tacos—but sadly, not until I was on my way out of town. I’ll be back to try them on my next visit! You can find some cute souvenirs (and some kitchy ones) at Zion Canyon Offerings, Trailhead Gifts and Bumbleberry (where you can also get some tasty baked goodies).
Don’t forget to pack:
- Water bottle (or two)
- Sturdy hiking boots
- Extra socks—preferably wool or synthetic. After hiking through water, you’ll appreciate being able to change into dry socks.
- A comfortable day pack (padded straps and a chest strap help) for your water, snacks, and spare gear.
- Plastic bag (or 2) for your gear inside your day pack if you plan to hike the Narrows.
- Hiking poles for extra grip and balance, particularly if hiking through the Narrows. The rapids can get strong, and the ground is slippery. Aim for the ones with the loops near the handles and wrap the loops around your wrists. When wet, those handles get a bit slick.
- Lightweight rain jacket—even if rain isn’t in the forecast
- Sunglasses
- Camera/phone (don’t expect your phone to get a cell connection in the park, but bring it for the camera)
- Lip balm and sunscreen
- Layers of light, quick-drying clothing
Zion’s extensive network of trails, ranging from easy strolls to strenuous treks, invites exploration into its most secluded nooks and across its spectacular vistas. With over 100 trails, I hope you come and immerse yourself in the natural beauty and awe-inspiring terrain of this park.
Happy Travels!
Next stop Bryce Canyon. Don’t miss the full collection of trip guides for the US National Parks.